Wrap Flower 6" Square Free Crochet Pattern

When I received a custom order for a complete baby set for a girl I was excited. I love designing a cute square and making an entire set come together. I knew I wanted to do a flower square, but it had to be flat so that it laid well but it had to have some texture. My All In One Wrap Flower came to mind immediately.

Wrap Flower Square Free Crochet Pattern

For the baby set I found some cute free patterns on ravelry. The diaper cover I made using a 0-3 month pattern . I made the booties using the baby booties with ankle strap pattern by Tina Rodriguez. The headband is just an extra wrap flower glued to a headband.

Wrap Flower Square Free Crochet Pattern

The square works up to be 6 inches, which means they work up fast. I made 10 flower squares and 10 complimentary squares with a striped pattern to create a baby blanket that measures roughly 2 feet by 2.5 feet (4x5 squares). At the end of this pattern are instructions for the striped square. :)

Wrap Flower Square

:: Download Pattern as PDF File ::
(You can click on any image to enlarge.)

Materials Needed
  • worsted weight yarn in your choice of two or more colors
  • H crochet hook

Let's get started!


Tip: You'll be working the flower in the round, make sure you mark the beginning of the round with a stitch marker.

Flower
With your flower color, make a magic loop/magic ring and pull up a loop.


Rnd 1: ch 2, work 12 dc in loop, pull loop closed, do not join (12 sts)

Wrap Flower Square Free Crochet Pattern

Rnd 2: working in the back and third loops (see picture), 2 dc in each st around (24 sts)

Wrap Flower Square Free Crochet Pattern

Wrap Flower Square Free Crochet Pattern


Rnd 3: working in back and third loops again, (dc in next st, 2 dc in next st) around (36 sts)
Work a hdc and sc in next two sts of the next round to create a nice circle.

Wrap Flower Square Free Crochet Pattern

Turn your work so you’re looking at the back of the circle.

Wrap Flower Square Free Crochet Pattern

Wrap Flower Square Free Crochet Pattern

Rnd 4: (ch3, skip 2 sts, slst into the next st’s back and third loops) 17 times, (ch2, skip 1 st, slst in the next st’s back and third loops) 11 times, ch 2, sk 1 and slst around the next post  (total 29 loops)


Wrap Flower Square Free Crochet Pattern

Rnd 5: Turn your work so you’re now looking back at the front of the circle, (slst in loop, ch1, 2dc in loop, ch1, slst in loop) into the 12 small loops, (slst in the next loop, ch1, 3dc in loop, ch1, slst in loop) into the next 16 large loops, (slst in next loop, ch1, 2dc in loop, ch1, slst in loop) into the last loop, slst to the st next to the last petal (total 29 petals, 13 small and 17 large)

Wrap Flower Square Free Crochet Pattern

Fasten off. Join square background color in the back loop of the stitch where you just slip stitched.


Square
Work in the back loops (and the third loop) left behind from the petals around the flower.  The beginning chains DO NOT count as stitches.

Rnd 1: ch1, hdc in same st, hdc in next, dc in next 2 sts, *(dc, trc, ch2, trc, dc) in next st, dc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 4 sts, dc in next 2 sts, repeat from * 2 more times, (dc, trc, ch2, trc, dc) in next st, dc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, slst to the first hdc (48 sts)

Wrap Flower Square Free Crochet Pattern

Rnd 2: ch2, dc in next 6 sts, *(2dc, ch3, 2dc) in loop, dc in next 12 sts, repeat from * 2 more times, (2dc, ch3, 2dc) in loop, dc in 6 sts, slst to the beginning (64 sts)

Rnd 3: ch2, dc in next 8 sts, *(2dc, ch3, 2dc) in loop, dc in next 16 sts, repeat from * 2 more times, (2dc, ch3, 2dc) in loop, dc in 8 sts, slst to the beginning (80 sts)

Rnd 4: ch1, sc in each dc and 5 sc in each ch sp, slst to the beginning (100 sc)

Fasten off and weave in end.


All done! Hope you like it!


Wrap Flower Square Free Crochet Pattern

Here is the quick rundown for the complimentary square. 

With color A (flower color), chain 6 and slip stitch to the beginning chain to form a loop. Chain 3 (only these chains count as a stitch) and in the loop (dc3, ch3, dc4, ch3, dc4, ch3, dc4, ch3) and slip stitch to the beginning chain so you have four sides and four corners. It's best to fasten off here and join new color B into the first stitch.

Chain 2 (does not count as a stitch), dc in same stitch as joining and each double crochet, and work (2dc, ch3, 2dc) in each corner. Slip stitch to the beginning dc.

Work the next round the same way with color B. Then switch to color A and work another round the same way. Work the last round with color B and then work a round of single crochets in each double crochet and 5 single crochets in each corner.

I hope that made sense. :)

Elf Hat Crochet Pattern

I love cute elf hats around the Christmas season. It's a change from the traditional Santa hats. I had a hard time finding a cute elf hat that gradually tapered off the way that I wanted it to, so I decided to take a stab at it and create my own.

Elf Hat Free Crochet Pattern

I made these cuties last year for my kids and my two nephews. We had a blast taking pictures of them wearing them before they opened presents. I'm thinking that this year I might have my kids wear them for their pictures with Santa since they still fit. How cute will that be? I can just imagine them being real little elves and running around Santa's workshop with him, LOL!


Without further ado, here is the pattern. I took the liberty of writing out a quick and simple version for those that are more intermediate/advances at their pattern reading before the round by round instructions. When in doubt just go straight for the full pattern.

Download this pattern in a PDF file HERE.

Size:
This pattern is written for a toddler/small child size ranging from sizes 2T-6, and an extension for a big kid/adult size ranging from sizes 8 kids to adult.

Materials Needed:
  • worsted weight yarn of your choice (in 2 or more colors of your choice)
  • H crochet hook
  • yarn needle for weaving in ends
  • materials needed to create a pom pom (I used the cardboard circle method, or you can wind it on your hand)
Gauge:
15 sts and 12 rows should create a 4x4 square.


Tip: I’ve started out with my first color for three rounds then changed colors every two rounds to create my stripe. You can do this or create your own stripes.

Special Stitches:
dcFP (double crochet front post): With your crochet hook, instead of going through the normal space of the stitch, put your crochet hook (on the side you’re working on) in the space on the right of the post of the stitch you are working in, around the post, and then back through the space on the left of the post. Yarn over and draw up a loop around this post. You should be on the front of the work and should have 3 loops, finish off the double crochet normally.

dcBP (double crochet back post): With your crochet hook, instead of going through the normal space of the stitch, put your crochet hook (on the backside of your work) in the space on the right of the post of the stitch you are working in, around the post, and then back through the space on the left of the post. Yarn over and draw up a loop around this post. You should be on the back of your work and should have 3 loops, finish off the double crochet normally.

Let’s get started! 

Elf Hat Crochet Pattern

Tip: You will join at the end of every round and work every round in the same direction.

Quick Instructions:
Rnd 1: 6 hdc into loop, slst to beginning (6 sts)

Rnd 2: (hdc inc, hdc next 2) 2 times (8 sts)

Rnd 3-4: hdc around

Rnd 4-19: Repeat Rnds 2 through 4 respectively, alternating a round increasing two times evenly and then two hdc rounds.

Rnd 20: hdc inc 2 times evenly

Rnd 21: hdc around

Rnd 22-51: Repeat Rnds 20-21 respectively, alternating a round increasing two times evenly and then hdc around one round.

Rnd 52: hdc inc 4 times  evenly

Rnd 53: hdc around

Rnd 54-63: Repeat Rnds 52-53 respectively, alternating a round increasing four times evenly and then hdc around one round.

Rnd 64-73: hdc around (74 sts)


Band
Rnd 74: ch2, dc around (74 sts)

Rnd 75-77: ch2, (dcFP, dcBP) around, slst to the first dc (74 sts)
Fasten Off


Full Written Pattern:
Using your H hook and your first choice of color (this will also be the last color worked), make a magic loop/magic ring , pull up a loop and chain 1.

Rnd 1: work 6hdc into the loop, pull the loop closed, slst to the first hdc (6 sts)

Rnd 2: ch 1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 2 sts) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (8 sts)

Rnd 3: ch1, hdc in each st around, slst to the first hdc (8 sts)

If you are creating a stripe then change color now.

Rnd 4: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (8 sts)

Rnd 5: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 3 sts) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (10 sts)

Change color for stripe patter, and change color every 2 rounds from here on out. (I won’t be prompting you to do so anymore, *wink*.)

Rnd 6-7: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (10 sts)

Rnd 8: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 4) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (12 sts)

Rnd 9-10: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (12 sts)

Rnd 11: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 5) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (14 sts)

Rnd 12-13: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (14 sts)

Rnd 14: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 6) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (16 sts)

Rnd 15-16: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (16 sts)

Rnd 17: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 7) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (18 sts)

Rnd 18-19: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (18 sts)

Rnd 20: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 8) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (20 sts)

Rnd 21: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (20 sts)

Rnd 22: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 9) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (22 sts)

Rnd 23: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (22 sts)

Rnd 24: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 10) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (24 sts)

Rnd 25: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (24 sts)

Rnd 26: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 11) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (26 sts)

Rnd 27: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (26 sts)

Rnd 28: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 12) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (28 sts)

Rnd 29: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (28 sts)

Rnd 30: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 13) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (30 sts)

Rnd 31: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (30 sts)

Rnd 32: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 14) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (32 sts)

Rnd 33: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (32 sts)

Rnd 34: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 15) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (34 sts)

Rnd 35: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (34 sts)

Rnd 36: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 16) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (36 sts)

Rnd 37: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (36 sts)

Rnd 38: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 17) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (38 sts)

Rnd 39: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (38 sts)

Rnd 40: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 18) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (40 sts)

Rnd 41: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (40 sts)

Rnd 42: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 19) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (42 sts)

Rnd 43: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (42 sts)

Rnd 44: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 20) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (44 sts)

Rnd 45: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (44 sts)

Rnd 46: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 21) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (46 sts)

Rnd 47: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (46 sts)

Rnd 48: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 22) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (48 sts)

Rnd 49: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (48 sts)

Rnd 50: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 23) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (50 sts)

Rnd 51: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (50 sts)

Rnd 52: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 11) 4 times, slst to the first hdc (54 sts)

Rnd 53: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (54 sts)

Rnd 54: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 12) 4 times, slst to the first hdc (58 sts)

Rnd 55: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (58 sts)

Rnd 56: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 13) 4 times, slst to the first hdc (62 sts)

Rnd 57: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (62 sts)

If you’re making a toddler hat, stop here and work 10 rounds of hdc around. Once finished jump to the band section.

Rnd 58: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 14) 4 times, slst to the first hdc (66 sts)

Rnd 59: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (66 sts)

Rnd 60: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 15) 4 times, slst to the first hdc (70 sts)

Rnd 61: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (70 sts)

Rnd 62: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 16) 4 times, slst to the first hdc (74 sts)

Rnd 63-73: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (74 sts)
Join your band color for an adult hat.

Band
Rnd 74: ch2, dc around, slst to the first dc (74 sts)

Rnd 75-77: ch2, (dcFP, dcBP) around, slst to the first dc (74 sts)
Fasten Off and weave in end.

Make a pom pom any way you like to sew to the pointed end. I chose not to pack it with too much yarn so it wouldn’t be too heavy.


And you’re all done! Enjoy your elf hat!

DIY Yarn Bowl Tutorial Pattern

So I've been going through my yarn stash and realizing I have a bunch of little balls of yarn that I've wound up from remnants. I wanted to use up these remnants, but I just hate when they roll around my desk or work area. So, I decided to do something about it.


I always buy my yarn by the skein and of course pull the end from the inside of the skein so it unravels fairly easily. What I don't like is when you get about halfway through the skein and it gets floppy and doesn't sit well anymore, so I tend to hand roll them into balls at that point.

I've always wanted a yarn bowl to use for these, but unfortunately I just can't afford to buy one right now, and I figured why not try to DIY my own!? I knew crocheting a bowl from yarn would prove problematic when the yarn starts to pill. There was no way that the yarn would pass through any opening easily if the bowl was made from yarn. Thinking of what else I could make this bowl out of, plarn hit me (plastic yarn) and it was perfect. :D


Luckily I always hold on to my grocery bags, so I set out and cut up about 10 bags or so using this tutorial I found. I still have enough plarn to make another bowl, which I might do. The plarn isn't all that sturdy, so I used some of my paracord I had lying around to help stabilize it. You can use any kind of rope, or maybe even try a chunky yarn instead of the paracord.

Here's what I did!

Plarn Bowl

Materials Used:
• plastic bags cut and assembled into yarn
• paracord or thin rope
• G hook or desired size, doesn't matter
• scissors to cut plarn and cut at the end of project
• lighter to finish off ends of paracord (optional)

Pattern
Note: I crocheted the plarn around the paracord in the round, so it's all in one piece and the paracord is continuous. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round. 

Make a magic ring/magic loop and pull up a loop in the center and chain 1.
Rnd 1: sc 8 into the magic loop around your cord

Rnd 2: (working in the round) sc inc in each stitch around (16 sts)

Rnd 3: (sc 1, inc) around (24 sts)

Rnd 4: (sc 2, inc) around (32 sts)

Rnd 5: (sc 3, inc) around (40 sts)

Rnd 6: (sc 4, inc) around (48 sts)

Rnd 7: (sc 5, inc) around (56 sts)

Rnd 8: (sc 6, inc) around (64 sts)

Rnd 9: back post sc in each stitch around
Note: You may notice that the upper half of the bowl is wide instead of straight up, which I didn't like. Pull the cord through each row to tighten your bowl as desired. 

Rnd 10-15: sc around (64 sts)

Rnd 16: ch 4, skip next 4 sts, sc in remaining 60 sts (60 sts)
Note: Keep your cord across the chain opening, you'll cut that out later.

Rnd 17: 4 sc in ch 4 space, work 28 more sc, cut and seal cord, slst in next 5 sts, fasten off
Note: Yes you are finishing off at the back.



You could work as many rows as you like. Now you can cut the edges of the cord left in the opening. I just pulled them out a bit and cut and sealed them with my lighter and then stretched my crochet back over the cord. Do this on both edges.

There you have it! A yarn bowl that will allow your yarn ball to sit still and not get tangled on anything! Hope you enjoy!

What do you use for your balls of yarn?

Elephant Square Free Pattern

So I recently got a custom order for a friend's baby shower gift.  Babies, yay!  Her theme is elephants after her Indian heritage (from India, not Native American, of course)!  :)

I had the ingenious idea of creating an elephant square to go along with another square I had seen online. I also made a matching lovey blanket and earflap hat!  I used bright colors inspired by Indian culture, but of course cutesy girly too.

It's so super cute, I just love how it turned out!  What do you think?  :D


I got an overwhelming response from fans on my facebook page of people who just loved what I created and wanted to recreate this pattern for themselves. Thank you to everyone who commented and showed your love!

I'm happy to report that I decided to post the elephant square for FREE! The lovey I'm going to post in my shop soon, so be on the lookout for that!  It's finally ready! You can find my elephant lovey pattern on ravelry and my etsy shop.

The flower square I found at Made in K-town. Her tutorial has lots of pictures and is super easy to follow.  :)

My square uses my own elephant applique instead of the first two rounds of the flower square and then continues on with round 3 and so on. I made 10 of each design for a 4x5 squares baby blanket (4 squares across and 5 squares down)!

I joined my squares using this tutorial by Attic24. It's super easy, and as you see it lays really nicely! I then finished the blanket off with a round of single crochets and a round of shell stitches.  :)

But without further ado, here is the elephant square free pattern.


Elephant Crochet Square


What you need:
• Worsted Weight Yarn (I used Loops and Thread: Impeccable from Michaels)
• H hook
• D hook
• Embroidery Needle.
• hot glue (I know, not the best thing to use on a blanket but I had no other way of adding the eyes without it showing)

*TIP: join at the end of every round to the first crochet made, not the beginning chains.

Elephant
With grey yarn (or elephant color of your choice) and H hook.
Rnd 1:  make a magic loop, ch 2 and dc 12 into loop, join  (12 sts)
Rnd 2:  ch 2, 2 dc in same st as chains, 2 dc in each st around, join  (24 sts)
Do not fasten off.
Trunk:  ch 7, 3 sc in second ch from hook, sc in next 5 chains, slst to the next st on head, slst in each st around the head and around the trunk (this will help give the end of the trunk its rounded shape) FO
Create an invisible join (video) and sew end in under stitches of the trunk.

Ears (make 2)
Rnd 1: make a magic loop and dc 8 into the loop, turn
Rnd 2:  ch 1, 2 HDC into the first st, 2 dc in next 6 sts, 2 HDC in last st, leave about a 12 inch tail for sewing when you FO  (16 sts)

Sew the ears to the sides of the head you just created making sure to only stitch them to the front loops, then sew in ends.  You will need the back loops to crochet the rest of the square into.

sewing in just the loops on the front side of the face
Eyes (Make 2)
With black yarn and D hook.
Rnd 1: make a magic loop and sc 6 into loops, join, FO and sew in ends.
With white yarn, embroider a little stitch through the eyes so that there is a little line of white showing on the front.  There wasn't much room to sew in ends so I hot glued the little ends down on the back side making sure to make it really flat.

Since there really wasn't a way to sew the eyes on the work without it showing in some way, I hot glued the eyes onto the head as shown in the photo above.  Only put a thin layer of glue on the back so that it doesn't seep out the sides and won't be visible.  Also make sure that the glue doesn't come out the back of your work.

Now you should have a complete elephant and you will start with round 3 from the pattern from Made in K-town and crochet it onto the elephant, which I will outline below!  :)

Square Rounds
with an H hook

As you can see here, this is the back side of the head, and you are going to crochet into loops along the side of the head, but then just the back loops behind the ears.


Rnd 3 (from square): sk first st, join color to next st and ch 3, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same st, sk 2 sts, (2dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next st, sk 2 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next st, sk 1 st, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next st, sk 3 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next st, sk 1 st, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next st, sk 2 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next st, sk 2 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next st, join to beginning ch 3, slst in next st and in ch 2 space


*TIP: When working in stitches behind the ears, work your first dc in the back loop and then for the next pick up a loop from the bottom of the stitch. for more stability.  Continue to crochet in both loops for the remainder of the cluster in that stitch.


Rnd 4 (from square): ch 3, work 6 dc in same ch 2 space, work 7 dc in each ch 2 space around, slst join to the first ch 3 (8- 7 dc clusters made)
FO if you are working a new color next as the pattern shows.

Rnd 5 (from square): join color to the ch 3 st, work a sc in the top of the ch 3 and in each of the next 6 dc, sc spike down between the dc of the round joined to the head, continue to sc in each dc and a sc spike between each of the clusters.  (see photo above or the photos of the pattern linked for details)
FO for new color.

Rnd 6 (from square): join new color right where you fastened off in the top of the last sc spike, ch 1 and hdc in same st, * sc  in next 4 sts, hdc, dc in next 2 sts, (2 trc, ch 3, 2 trc) in next st, dc in next 2 sts, hdc in next st, sc in next 4 sts, hdc, repeat from the * until the end, join to the first hdc.
(I know the original pattern says (1 trc, ch 3, 1 trc) for the corners, but I liked it better as 2 trc and that's what I did on my squares.  Feel free to do whichever way you like it best.)

Rnd 7 (from square): ch 2 and dc in same st, dc in each st around working (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in each corner space, join to the first dc and FO


So that's my elephant square and I hope you enjoy it.  Please let me know if you have any questions!  If you find any problems or typos with this pattern then please let me know and I will be sure to fix it.  :)

TERMS :: You may sell whatever you make with my pattern, but please link back to my blog or facebook page.  

Happy crocheting!
Chassity O.