Fashion Doll Free Pattern

So I posted about my fashion doll, Darcy, a little while ago and since decided to make her a free pattern. Yay! She is such a cute little doll that any girl would love to have. Read on for instructions on how you can make her for yourself! There's also a PDF you can download to use later. :)

This post contains affiliate links for you to use to buy whatever you need. When you click through the links, I earn a percentage for your purchase. This helps me to keep more patterns coming for free!

This doll is quick and easy to make that I whipped her up in just two days. In my picture you can see that I knitted a skirt for her, but this pattern has a crocheted version written. She stands about 11 inches tall and would be lots of fun for any little girl to play with. I made a best friend from this same great pattern. The possibilities are endless.

Materials Needed:
• worsted weight yarn in your choice of colors (more details on what I used in the pattern)
• sport weight yarn for hair (optional, see the note below this list for details)
• Crochet Hook in Size D or F
• Steel Crochet Hook Size 6/1.8mm (or the smallest hook you have, like any steel hook or a B or C hook)
• pair of 9mm Safety Eyes
• Poly-Fil Premium Polyester Fiber
• Tapestry Needle for sewing together
• cotton thread and/or Embroidery Floss for facial features, likes eyelids, lips, and brows
• craft supplies for accessories, I used Mini Pom-Poms to make a flower (optional)

Note: The hair is one of my favorite parts and can really be a deciding factor in the overall aesthetic of your doll. There are so many yarn options out there to explore, from weights to types and colors, and different techniques to make all sorts of different textures. On this doll I used a sport weight yarn to make a thinner, nicer looking strand without crowding the head full of hair. You can use any kind of yarn you like and still follow my technique/pattern. :)

Let’s get started!

Tip: Everything is crocheted in the round, using a stitch marker to mark the beginning of your round unless otherwise stated!

Head
Start using your size D hook and your skin color yarn. I used Red Heart Super Saver in the color Aran for this doll.

Rnd 1: Make a magic loop and sc 6 in the loop. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: increase in every sc around (12 sts)

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around (18 sts)

Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 sts, inc) around (24 sts)

Rnd 5: (sc in next 3 sts, inc) around (30 sts)

Rnd 6: (sc in next 4 sts, inc) around (36 sts)

Rnd 7-14: sc across (36 sts)

Rnd 15: (sc in next 4 sts, dec) around (30 sts)

Rnd 16: (sc in next 3 sts, dec) around (24 sts)
At this point it may be a good idea to add the safety eyes where you would like. I added mine between rows 12 and 13. Once your eyes are in place, lightly stuff the head to make the stuffing process a little easier later.

Rnd 17: (sc in next 2 sts, dec) around (18 sts)

Rnd 18: (sc, dec) around (12 sts)

Rnd 19: dec around (6 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing to the body. Finish stuffing the head FIRMLY.

At this point I like to decorate the face to give me a better understanding of how her "mood" will be and how I want to style her. You can do this now or skip it and do it later.

Eyelids (Make 2)
You can use your skin color or even an eye shadow color for the eyelids. You'll also need your steel/smaller hook for this. DO NOT WORK IN THE ROUND FOR THE LIDS.

Row 1: Make a magic loop and sc 4 in the loop. Turn (4 sts)

Row 2: sc across (4 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing to the head.

Eyes
You should already have the eyes in place, so you will need to sew the eyelids over the eyes. You can position them however you like to achieve the look you want. Making more of the black show makes the eyes look more awake and natural, whereas the lower you go over the black of the eye the sleepier it looks. Play around with it and don't hesitate to take it apart and try again if it's not looking right.

Nose
In the center of the face, between the eyes, use your cotton floss/embroidery thread to around two stitches a few times. Just bring your needle up on one side and place your needle back down after two stitches. Come back up and around a few times until you feel the nose is thick enough. The number of times you go around can change the look of the face greatly, so do whatever you think if right for the look you want.

Mouth

Play around with lip colors to suit your needs. For a more natural look, stick to peachy colors instead of the skin color. The mouth is a little harder to explain, but I hope my little sketch below helps to explain how I achieved the look of my lips. (Tip: Bring your stitches up through the posts of crochet stitches, not through the spaces between them.)

So in my little guideline, the red lines will make up the upper lip and the blue lines will make up the lower lip. I started with the lower red line, making the two dashes meet in the center, then did the upper two lines. I then created the blue lines, working my way down and making sure the lines touch the upper lip but curving them down in the center. If this doesn't make sense then please feel free to leave a comment! :)

Eyebrows
I usually wait until I have the hair on to do the eyebrows, but here is how I did them. They are super easy and are made up of two lines. Starting at the inside corner of the eye, you will create a long line starting a a little further to the inside of the face and ending just after the black pupil part of the eye. Then make a smaller line slanting downward and a little farther past the outside corner of the eye.

You can make the eyebrows into any shape you want, so feel free to play with them to give the look some character.

Ears
In your skin yarn and size D hook, make a magic loop and sc 4 into the loop. Pull the loop tight and don't slst. Fasten it off, leaving a long tail to sew to the head.


Body
Use your skin color and your size D hook.

Rnd 1: Make a magic loop and sc 6 into the loop. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: inc around (12 sts)

Rnd 3: sc around (12 sts)
Switch to your shirt color.

Rnd 4: (sc, inc) around (18 sts)

Rnd 5: sc around

Rnd 6: (sc in next 2 sts, inc) around (24 sts)

Rnd 7-16: sc around
Now you can switch to your skirt color.

Rnd 17-21: sc around

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing the body closed later.


Legs (Make 2)
The feet are worked from the bottom up. Use your skin color and size D hook.

Rnd 1: Make a magic loop and sc 6 into the loop. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: inc around (12 sts)

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around (18 sts)

Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 sts, inc) around (24 sts)

Rnd 5-6: sc around

Rnd 7: sc next 6 sts, dec 6 times, sc in next 6 sts (18 sts)

Rnd 8: dec, sc in next 4 sts, dec 3 times, sc in next 4 sts, dec (13 sts)

Rnd 9: sc in next 5 sts, dec, sc in last 6 sts (12 sts)

Rnd 10: sc across

Rnd 11: (dec, sc in next 4 sts) 2 times (10 sts)

Rnd 12-31: sc around
Fasten off. You don't need a tail for these. Stuff them firmly, leaving the last two rows of sc's empty for sewing to the body.


Arms (Make 2)
Use your skin color and size D hook.

Rnd 1: make a magic loop and sc 6 into the loop. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: (inc, sc in next 2 sts) 2 times (8 sts)

Rnd 3-4: sc across


Rnd 5: sc across, make a thumb (ch 4, sk 1, slst next 3 ch's) (8 sts and a thumb)

Rnd 6: sc across in the 8 sc's

Rnd 7: (sc in next 2 sts, dec) 2 times (6 sts)
Stuff the hand firmly.

Rnd 8-21: sc across
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing to the body. I choose not to stuff the arms to make them lay flat nicely and more pose-able.


Shoes (Make 2)
I used two different colors, one for soles and one for the upper part of the shoe. You can use two colors or one. If you choose to use two colors, change to the second color after round 4.

Rnd 1: Make a magic loop and sc 6 into the loop. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: inc around (12 sts)

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around (18 sts)

Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 sts, inc) around (24 sts)

Rnd 5-7: sc around

Rnd 8: sc in next 7 sts, hdc, dc2tog 2 times, trc3tog (instructions for this st are below), dc2tog 2 times, hdc, sc, slst to the next st (15 sts)
Fasten off and weave in end. You can attach the shoes to the feet when you’re all done.

Trc3tog (treble crochet 3 together): Yarn over 2 times and insert hook into the first st, yarn over and draw loop through the st (4 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through two loops on hook, yarn over and pull through two loops again (2 loops now on hook). Yarn over 2 times and insert hook into the second st, yarn over and draw loop through the st (5loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through two loops on hook, yarn over and pull through two loops again (3 loops now on hook). Yarn over 2 times and insert hook into the third st, yarn over and draw loop through the st (6 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through two loops on hook, yarn over and pull through two loops again (4 loops now on hook).Then yarn over and pull through all the loops on the hook.

Skirt
Ok, the skirt is up for interpretation. I knitted the skirt for the doll pictured, however here is a basic pattern of what I did, but in crochet form.

Use your skirt color you did on the bottom of your body and a size D hook. Work back and forth, turning your work.

Ch 27
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, TURN (26 sts)

Row 2-4: ch 1, sc across, TURN

Row 5: ch 1, sc 5, inc, (sc 4, inc) 3 times, sc 5, TURN (30 sts)

Row 6-8: ch 1, sc across, TURN

Row 9: ch 1, sc 3, inc, (sc 5, inc) 4 times, sc 2, TURN (35 sts)

Row 10-12: ch 1, sc across, TURN

Row 13: sc 4, picot (instructions for this st are below), (sc 3, picot) 10 times, sc last st (35 sts & 11 picots)
Fasten off, leaving a long enough tail to sew the two sides of the skirt together and then sew the skirt to the body.

Picot stitch: ch 3, sk 2 ch’s and slst to the 3rd ch to form a loop. Continue in pattern as normal.

Sew the skirt to the body so the top of the skirt matches up with the skirt line of the body (Round 17).

Assembly
You can now assemble your doll. I like to assemble the doll completely before I put the hair on so that the hair doesn’t get in the way.

Place the legs side by side inside the body opening and sew the bottom of the body shut, sewing through both layers of the body as well as the layers of the legs. Make sure the feet are facing the same direction.

Sew the head to the top of the body next. Sew through the top of the last round on the head and through the posts of the second round of the body. You can make it work the way however you like. Sew it tightly so that the head doesn’t wobble too much. (Some wobbling is to be expected.)

Now you can sew the arms how you like them. Lay the top of the arms flat and sew them down to the body. In order to make the top of the body look like a tank top, make sure you sew the arms below the neckline.

Hair
Wig Cap
You should create a cap in the color you are making your hair in order to cover the scalp of the head. This will help to make the hair look fuller and stop any of the skin color from showing through.

If you are using a worsted weight yarn in the same thickness of the body yarn, you can follow the first 10 rounds or so of the head pattern. Just keep placing the cap to the head and checking the fit til you like it.

I used a sports weight yarn to make the hair thinner. Since it’s a thinner weight yarn you won’t be able to follow the pattern completely. For sports weight yarns, follow the first 6 rounds of the head pattern and then continue in the same increases until the circle is the same diameter as the head. You can then work a few rounds of single crochets until it sits on the head the way you want it. Check it often to make sure you don’t crochet too far.


Sew your cap to the head but tilted slightly back like hair, then sew the ears just in the front of the cap, making sure they line up with the eyes.

Hair Strands
Now you’ll need to create her hair. I cut strands of yarn about 16 inches long.


The great part about a ponytail is that you don’t have to cover the entire head. I start around the crown of the head where the ponytail will go and attach the yarn in a circular section about a half an inch wide.

Attaching the Hair: Use your D hook to go around a post of a stitch and grab the center of a strand of yarn. Pull it through the cap, creating a loop. You’ll then pull the strands of the yarn through the loop and pull it tightly.

Once you've finished the ponytail section you’ll need to move on to the edges. Attach a single row of hair onto the skin/head at the edge of the cap. If you attach it to the cap it will pull up the edges of the cap, which is no good. Attaching it to the head instead of the cap will allow it to look more like an actual ponytail and it won’t pull the cap.

Once you’ve gone all the way around the edge of the cap, you will need to pull the ponytail up. Pull the edge hairs up to the ponytail hairs and wrap it with some complimenting yarn. You’ll need to trim up the ponytail so that it looks even since the edge hair will be shorter than the ponytail hair.

Finishing Touches
You can add some optional finishing touches. Here is what I did!
• I added some blush to the cheeks with my own makeup.
• I glued mini pompoms on the shirt to make a 3D flower.
• I created a belt with brown yarn and a row of single crochets. I then sewed it to the shirt line with complimenting yarn.


All done! I hope you like it!

If you have any questions about this pattern then please feel free to leave a comment or email me. For more info on my terms of use then please visit the terms page linked in the linkbar above! :)

Happy crocheting,
~Chassity O.

Crochet Birthday Badge Tutorial

January is my birthday month, so I wanted to celebrate by posting birthday related crochet. Last year I created a super cute birthday badge for my daughter to wear at her 7th birthday party. I knew my daughter would be jumping around in a bouncy house and running around with her friends, so crocheting it seemed like the perfect fit!

This little cutie is so easy to customize for any theme, the ideas are endless! Change the colors, use different appliques on the front, and use them over and over again every year!

I looked at Pinterest for inspiration and found these super cute paper badges from Paige and Chris. The bright colors are perfectly eye catching, and the layers make it dynamic. I knew I could recreate something similar in my own way!

I set out to make all sorts of layers to sew (and glue) together into a cute badge. This post contains affiliate links so you can buy them all easily without having to leave the house, LOL. 

Here is what you will need:

• worsted weight yarn in varying colors of your choice

• crochet hook of choice, I used a size G

• a tapestry needle for sewing pieces together

• strips of tulle (details below)

• needle and thread (or embroidery floss) (color doesn't matter)

• hot glue gun (optional)

Let's get Started!

Birthday Badge Tutorial

Cupcake Applique

With your cake color, ch 6.

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 4 sts, Turn

Row 2-4: ch 1, sc in back loops only, Turn

Fasten off 

With your frosting color, 

Row 1: create a magic loop and hdc 4 in the loop.

Row 2: ch 1, 2 hdc in each st, Turn

Row 3: ch 1, 1 hdc in first st, 2 hdc in next, 1 hdc, 2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc, 2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts. 

Row 4 (worked along the straight edge below the at the bottom of the circle): (ch2, 2 dc) in the side of row 3, slst in the next row, (ch2, 2 dc) in the same space as the previous slst, slst in the side of row 1, (ch2, 2 dc) in the other side of row 1, slst in the side of row 2, (ch2, 2 dc) in the side of row 2, slst to the end of the circle.

FO, leaving a long tail to sew the frosting to the cucpake.

Sew the cupcake to the back of the frosting right where the scallops and the circle meet. when you are sewing, pull tightly on the edges to make the pinch in a little so you get a cute pudgy frosting look.

Cherry On Top

With a red color, make a magic loop and sc 6 times into the loop. slst to the first sc and FO.

You can sew or hot glue the cherry to the top of your cupcake.

Layers

You can make any layers you like. Have fun with it!

Scalloped Flower Under the Cupcake

Rnd 1: make a magic loop, ch 1 and hdc 8 into the loop, slst to the first hdc (8 sts)

Rnd 2: ch 1, 2 hdc in each st around, slst to the first hdc (16 sts)

Rnd 3: (ch 3, skip 1 st, slst into next st) 8 times around (the last st will go into the first st you slst into) (8 loops)

Rnd 4: (sl into the next loop, ch 2, 3 dc into the loop, ch 2, slst into the same loop) in each loop around (8 scallops)

FO and weave in end.

Back Circle

Rnd 1: make a magic loop, ch 1 and dc 12 into the loop, slst to the first dc (12 sts)

Rnd 2: ch 2, 2 dc in each st around, slst to the first dc (24 sts)

Rnd 3: ch 2, (dc, dc inc) around (36 sts)

Making a Tulle Ruffle Medallion

You will need a strip (or two) of tulle that's roughly 3 inches wide and about 20 inches long. I used a layer of glittery purple and a layer of pink for my badge. If you are using more than one layer, make sure the back layer is a little wider than the top layer. You can always trim it if it's too wide, but you can never add more if it's not right. (You can find spools of tulle around the sewing section at Hobby Lobby.)

With your sewing needle and thread you will knot it to one end of your tulle strip. I recommend doing each strip separately for a nice uneven layered look. Sew a running stitch along one long edge of your tulle (a running stitch is just weaving it in and out, or up and down, along the edge you are sewing). 

Once you get all the way to the end of your tulle then pull it tightly so the strip curls up into a circle. I like to pull it as tight as I can. Weave your thread through the edge a few times, sewing the edge shut and together, then finish it off with a knot.

"Ribbon" Strips

For your ribbon strings, crochet strips in different stitch heights. Length isn't as important because you can stagger them around when you sew/glue them together. 

Tip: If you make your chains a little tight and your sts a little loose it will force the strips to curl up.

I made 6 single crochet strips in all different colors.

ch  21, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each st across, FO

I made 1 half double crochet strip.

ch 21, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and each st across, FO

I made 2 double crochet strips.

ch 28, dc in 4th ch from hook and each st across, FO

Specialty Strips

I made one of each of these.

Picot Strip

ch 21, sk first ch, (sc, ch 3, slst in first ch, sc in st) across (makes 20 sc and 10 picots)

Super Curly Cue

ch 51, sk first ch, 3 sc in each st across (150 sc) 

Put It All Together!

Once all of your layers and strips you want are done, you can sew them together or hot glue them. I chose to hot glue everything together. It helps to make the tulle lay nicely.

• Glue your cupcake to the flower, and then glue that to the circle.

• Arrange the strips to the back of the circle the way you like before glueing them down. 

• Glue your tulle medallions behind your strips. 

All done! Enjoy your new birthday badge!

Happy crocheting,

Chassity O.

What is your favorite birthday theme for you or your kids?

Wrap Flower 6" Square Free Crochet Pattern

When I received a custom order for a complete baby set for a girl I was excited. I love designing a cute square and making an entire set come together. I knew I wanted to do a flower square, but it had to be flat so that it laid well but it had to have some texture. My All In One Wrap Flower came to mind immediately.

For the baby set I found some cute free patterns on ravelry. The diaper cover I made using a 0-3 month pattern. I made the booties using the baby booties with ankle strap pattern by Tina Rodriguez. The headband is just an extra wrap flower glued to a headband.

The square works up to be 6 inches, which means they work up fast. I made 10 flower squares and 10 complimentary squares with a striped pattern to create a baby blanket that measures roughly 2 feet by 2.5 feet (4x5 squares). At the end of this pattern are instructions for the striped square. :)

Wrap Flower Square

:: Download Pattern as PDF File ::
(You can click on any image to enlarge.) 

Materials Needed

• worsted weight yarn in your choice of two or more colors
• H crochet hook

Let's get started!


Tip: You'll be working the flower in the round, make sure you mark the beginning of the round with a stitch marker.

Flower

With your flower color, make a magic loop/magic ring and pull up a loop.

Rnd 1: ch 2, work 12 dc in loop, pull loop closed, do not join (12 sts)

Rnd 2: working in the back and third loops (see picture), 2 dc in each st around (24 sts)

Rnd 3: working in back and third loops again, (dc in next st, 2 dc in next st) around (36 sts)

Work a hdc and sc in next two sts of the next round to create a nice circle.

Turn your work so you’re looking at the back of the circle.

Rnd 4: (ch3, skip 2 sts, slst into the next st’s back and third loops) 17 times, (ch2, skip 1 st, slst in the next st’s back and third loops) 11 times, ch 2, sk 1 and slst around the next post  (total 29 loops)

Rnd 5: Turn your work so you’re now looking back at the front of the circle, (slst in loop, ch1, 2dc in loop, ch1, slst in loop) into the 12 small loops, (slst in the next loop, ch1, 3dc in loop, ch1, slst in loop) into the next 16 large loops, (slst in next loop, ch1, 2dc in loop, ch1, slst in loop) into the last loop, slst to the st next to the last petal (total 29 petals, 13 small and 17 large)

Fasten off. Join square background color in the back loop of the stitch where you just slip stitched.

Square

Work in the back loops (and the third loop) left behind from the petals around the flower.  The beginning chains DO NOT count as stitches.

Rnd 1: ch1, hdc in same st, hdc in next, dc in next 2 sts, *(dc, trc, ch2, trc, dc) in next st, dc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 4 sts, dc in next 2 sts, repeat from * 2 more times, (dc, trc, ch2, trc, dc) in next st, dc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, slst to the first hdc (48 sts)

Rnd 2: ch2, dc in next 6 sts, *(2dc, ch3, 2dc) in loop, dc in next 12 sts, repeat from * 2 more times, (2dc, ch3, 2dc) in loop, dc in 6 sts, slst to the beginning (64 sts)

Rnd 3: ch2, dc in next 8 sts, *(2dc, ch3, 2dc) in loop, dc in next 16 sts, repeat from * 2 more times, (2dc, ch3, 2dc) in loop, dc in 8 sts, slst to the beginning (80 sts)

Rnd 4: ch1, sc in each dc and 5 sc in each ch sp, slst to the beginning (100 sc)

Fasten off and weave in end.

All done! Hope you like it!

Here is the quick rundown for the complimentary square. 

With color A (flower color), chain 6 and slip stitch to the beginning chain to form a loop. Chain 3 (only these chains count as a stitch) and in the loop (dc3, ch3, dc4, ch3, dc4, ch3, dc4, ch3) and slip stitch to the beginning chain so you have four sides and four corners. It's best to fasten off here and join new color B into the first stitch.

Chain 2 (does not count as a stitch), dc in same stitch as joining and each double crochet, and work (2dc, ch3, 2dc) in each corner. Slip stitch to the beginning dc.

Work the next round the same way with color B. Then switch to color A and work another round the same way. Work the last round with color B and then work a round of single crochets in each double crochet and 5 single crochets in each corner.

I hope that made sense. :)


TERMS :: You may sell whatever you make with my pattern, but please link back to my blog. Please DO NOT alter my pattern and repost it in any way, claiming it as your own.

Happy crocheting!

Chassity O.

Elf Hat Crochet Pattern

I love cute elf hats around the Christmas season. It's a change from the traditional Santa hats. I had a hard time finding a cute elf hat that gradually tapered off the way that I wanted it to, so I decided to take a stab at it and create my own.

I made these cuties last year for my kids and my two nephews. We had a blast taking pictures of them wearing them before they opened presents. I'm thinking that this year I might have my kids wear them for their pictures with Santa since they still fit. How cute will that be? I can just imagine them being real little elves and running around Santa's workshop with him, LOL!

Without further ado, here is the pattern. I took the liberty of writing out a quick and simple version for those that are more intermediate/advanced at their pattern reading before the round by round instructions. When in doubt just go straight for the full pattern. This post contains affiliate links to help you get the materials you need easily!

Size:

This pattern is written for a toddler/small child size ranging from sizes 2T-6, and an extension for a big kid/adult size ranging from sizes 8 kids to adult.

Materials Needed:

• worsted weight yarn of your choice (in 2 or more colors of your choice)
• H crochet hook
• tapestry needle for weaving in ends
• pom pom maker and left over yarn (I used the cardboard circle method in the video below, or you can wind it on your hand)

Gauge:
15 sts and 12 rows should create a 4x4 square.

Tip: I’ve started out with my first color for three rounds then changed colors every two rounds to create my stripe. You can do this or create your own stripes.

Special Stitches:

dcFP (double crochet front post): With your crochet hook, instead of going through the normal space of the stitch, put your crochet hook (on the side you’re working on) in the space on the right of the post of the stitch you are working in, around the post, and then back through the space on the left of the post. Yarn over and draw up a loop around this post. You should be on the front of the work and should have 3 loops, finish off the double crochet normally.

dcBP (double crochet back post): With your crochet hook, instead of going through the normal space of the stitch, put your crochet hook (on the backside of your work) in the space on the right of the post of the stitch you are working in, around the post, and then back through the space on the left of the post. Yarn over and draw up a loop around this post. You should be on the back of your work and should have 3 loops, finish off the double crochet normally.

Let’s get started! 

Elf Hat Crochet Pattern

Tip: You will join at the end of every round and work every round in the same direction.

Quick Instructions:

Make a Magic Ring

Rnd 1: 6 hdc into loop, slst to beginning (6 sts)

Rnd 2: (hdc inc, hdc next 2) 2 times (8 sts)

Rnd 3-4: hdc around

Rnd 4-19: Repeat Rnds 2 through 4 respectively, alternating a round increasing two times evenly and then two hdc rounds.

Rnd 20: hdc inc 2 times evenly

Rnd 21: hdc around

Rnd 22-51: Repeat Rnds 20-21 respectively, alternating a round increasing two times evenly and then hdc around one round.

Rnd 52: hdc inc 4 times  evenly

Rnd 53: hdc around

Rnd 54-63: Repeat Rnds 52-53 respectively, alternating a round increasing four times evenly and then hdc around one round.

Rnd 64-73: hdc around (74 sts)

Band

Rnd 74: ch2, dc around (74 sts)

Rnd 75-77: ch2, (dcFP, dcBP) around, slst to the first dc (74 sts)

Fasten Off

Full Written Pattern:

Using your H hook and your first choice of color (this will also be the last color worked), make a magic loop/magic ring , pull up a loop and chain 1.

Rnd 1: work 6hdc into the loop, pull the loop closed, slst to the first hdc (6 sts)

Rnd 2: ch 1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 2 sts) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (8 sts)

Rnd 3: ch1, hdc in each st around, slst to the first hdc (8 sts)

If you are creating a stripe then change color now.

Rnd 4: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (8 sts)

Rnd 5: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 3 sts) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (10 sts)

Change color for stripe patter, and change color every 2 rounds from here on out. (I won’t be prompting you to do so anymore, *wink*.)

Rnd 6-7: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (10 sts)

Rnd 8: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 4) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (12 sts)

Rnd 9-10: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (12 sts)

Rnd 11: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 5) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (14 sts)

Rnd 12-13: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (14 sts)

Rnd 14: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 6) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (16 sts)

Rnd 15-16: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (16 sts)

Rnd 17: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 7) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (18 sts)

Rnd 18-19: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (18 sts)

Rnd 20: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 8) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (20 sts)

Rnd 21: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (20 sts)

Rnd 22: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 9) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (22 sts)

Rnd 23: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (22 sts)

Rnd 24: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 10) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (24 sts)

Rnd 25: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (24 sts)

Rnd 26: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 11) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (26 sts)

Rnd 27: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (26 sts)

Rnd 28: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 12) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (28 sts)

Rnd 29: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (28 sts)

Rnd 30: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 13) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (30 sts)

Rnd 31: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (30 sts)

Rnd 32: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 14) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (32 sts)

Rnd 33: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (32 sts)

Rnd 34: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 15) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (34 sts)

Rnd 35: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (34 sts)

Rnd 36: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 16) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (36 sts)

Rnd 37: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (36 sts)

Rnd 38: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 17) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (38 sts)

Rnd 39: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (38 sts)

Rnd 40: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 18) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (40 sts)

Rnd 41: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (40 sts)

Rnd 42: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 19) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (42 sts)

Rnd 43: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (42 sts)

Rnd 44: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 20) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (44 sts)

Rnd 45: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (44 sts)

Rnd 46: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 21) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (46 sts)

Rnd 47: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (46 sts)

Rnd 48: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 22) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (48 sts)

Rnd 49: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (48 sts)

Rnd 50: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 23) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (50 sts)

Rnd 51: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (50 sts)

Rnd 52: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 24) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (52 sts)

Rnd 53: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (52 sts)

Rnd 54: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 12) 4 times, slst to the first hdc (56 sts)

Rnd 55: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (56sts)

Rnd 56: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 13) 4 times, slst to the first hdc (60 sts)

Rnd 57: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (60 sts)

If you’re making a toddler hat, stop here and work 10 rounds of hdc around. Once finished jump to the band section.

Rnd 58: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 14) 4 times, slst to the first hdc (64 sts)

Rnd 59: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (64 sts)

Rnd 60: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 15) 4 times, slst to the first hdc (68 sts)

Rnd 61: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (68 sts)

Rnd 62: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 16) 4 times, slst to the first hdc (72 sts)

Rnd 63-73: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (72 sts)

Join your band color for an adult hat.

Band

Rnd 74: ch2, dc around, slst to the first dc 

Rnd 75-77: ch2, (dcFP, dcBP) around, slst to the first dc 

Fasten Off and weave in end.

Make a pom pom any way you like to sew to the pointed end. I chose not to pack it with too much yarn so it wouldn’t be too heavy.

And you’re all done! Enjoy your elf hat!

Update!
I got a request for directions on how to make a pom pom, so I decided to find a video from youtube to show you how I make them. This video says to print their template to use, but you can trace anything circular and cut a circle in the center like I did. However wide your circle is is "about" how big your pompom should be, probably smaller once you start trimming it up! :)

TERMS :: You may sell whatever you make with my pattern, but please link back to my blog. Please DO NOT alter my pattern and repost it in any way, claiming it as your own.


Happy crocheting!
Chassity O.

DIY Yarn Bowl Tutorial Pattern

So I've been going through my yarn stash and realizing I have a bunch of little balls of yarn that I've wound up from remnants. I wanted to use up these remnants, but I just hate when they roll around my desk or work area. So, I decided to do something about it.

I always buy my yarn by the skein and of course pull the end from the inside of the skein so it unravels fairly easily. What I don't like is when you get about halfway through the skein and it gets floppy and doesn't sit well anymore, so I tend to hand roll them into balls at that point.

I've always wanted a yarn bowl to use for these, but unfortunately I just can't afford to buy one right now, and I figured why not try to DIY my own!? I knew crocheting a bowl from yarn would prove problematic when the yarn starts to pill. There was no way that the yarn would pass through any opening easily if the bowl was made from yarn. Thinking of what else I could make this bowl out of, plarn hit me (plastic yarn) and it was perfect. :D

Luckily I always hold on to my grocery bags, so I set out and cut up about 10 bags or so using this tutorial I found. I still have enough plarn to make another bowl, which I might do. The plarn isn't all that sturdy, so I used some of my paracord I had lying around to help stabilize it. You can use any kind of rope, or maybe even try a chunky yarn instead of the paracord. This post contains affiliate links to help you find what you need easily.

Here's what I did!

Plarn Bowl

Materials Used:
• plastic store bags cut and assembled into yarn
• white paracord or braided rope
• G crochet hook or desired size, doesn't matter
• scissors to cut plarn and cut at the end of project
• lighter to finish off ends of paracord (optional)

Pattern
Note: I crocheted the plarn around the paracord in the round, so it's all in one piece and the paracord is continuous. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round. 

Make a magic ring/magic loop and pull up a loop in the center and chain 1.
Rnd 1: sc 8 into the magic loop around your cord

Rnd 2: (working in the round) sc inc in each stitch around (16 sts)

Rnd 3: (sc 1, inc) around (24 sts)

Rnd 4: (sc 2, inc) around (32 sts)

Rnd 5: (sc 3, inc) around (40 sts)

Rnd 6: (sc 4, inc) around (48 sts)

Rnd 7: (sc 5, inc) around (56 sts)

Rnd 8: (sc 6, inc) around (64 sts)

Rnd 9: back post sc in each stitch around
Note: You may notice that the upper half of the bowl is wide instead of straight up, which I didn't like. Pull the cord through each row to tighten your bowl as desired. 

Rnd 10-15: sc around (64 sts)

Rnd 16: ch 4, skip next 4 sts, sc in remaining 60 sts (60 sts)
Note: Keep your cord across the chain opening, you'll cut that out later.

Rnd 17: 4 sc in ch 4 space, work 28 more sc, cut and seal cord, slst in next 5 sts, fasten off
Note: Yes you are finishing off at the back.

You could work as many rows as you like. Now you can cut the edges of the cord left in the opening. I just pulled them out a bit and cut and sealed them with my lighter and then stretched my crochet back over the cord. Do this on both edges.

There you have it! A yarn bowl that will allow your yarn ball to sit still and not get tangled on anything! Hope you enjoy!

What do you use for your balls of yarn?

TERMS :: You may sell whatever you make with my pattern, but please link back to my blog. Please DO NOT alter my pattern and repost it in any way, claiming it as your own.

Happy crocheting!
Chassity O.