When I received a custom order for a complete baby set for a girl I was excited. I love designing a cute square and making an entire set come together. I knew I wanted to do a flower square, but it had to be flat so that it laid well but it had to have some texture. My All In One Wrap Flower came to mind immediately.
For the baby set I found some cute free patterns on ravelry. The diaper cover I made using a 0-3 month pattern. I made the booties using the baby booties with ankle strap pattern by Tina Rodriguez. The headband is just an extra wrap flower glued to a headband.
The square works up to be 6 inches, which means they work up fast. I made 10 flower squares and 10 complimentary squares with a striped pattern to create a baby blanket that measures roughly 2 feet by 2.5 feet (4x5 squares). At the end of this pattern are instructions for the striped square. :)
worsted weight yarn in your choice of two or more colors
H crochet hook
Let's get started!
Tip: You'll be working the flower in the round, make sure you mark the beginning of the round with a stitch marker.
Flower
With
your flower color, make a magic loop/magic ring and pull up a loop.
Rnd
1: ch 2, work 12 dc in loop, pull loop closed, do not join (12 sts)
Rnd
2: working in the back and third loops (see picture), 2 dc in each st around (24
sts)
Rnd
3: working in back and third loops again, (dc in next st, 2 dc in next st)
around (36 sts)
Work a hdc
and sc in next two sts of the next round to create a nice circle.
Turn your work so you’re looking at the back of the circle.
Rnd
4: (ch3, skip 2
sts, slst into the next st’s back and third loops) 17 times, (ch2, skip 1 st,
slst in the next st’s back and third loops) 11 times, ch 2, sk 1 and slst
around the next post (total 29 loops)
Rnd
5: Turn your work so you’re now looking back at the front of the circle, (slst
in loop, ch1, 2dc in loop, ch1, slst in loop) into the 12 small loops, (slst in
the next loop, ch1, 3dc in loop, ch1, slst in loop) into the next 16 large
loops, (slst in next loop, ch1, 2dc in loop, ch1, slst in loop) into the last
loop, slst to the st next to the last petal (total 29 petals, 13 small and 17
large)
Fasten off. Join
square background color in the back loop of the stitch where you just slip
stitched.
Square
Work
in the back loops (and the third loop) left behind from the petals around the
flower. The beginning chains DO NOT
count as stitches.
Rnd 1: ch1, hdc in same st, hdc in next, dc in
next 2 sts, *(dc, trc, ch2, trc, dc) in next st, dc in next 2 sts, hdc in next
4 sts, dc in next 2 sts, repeat from * 2 more times, (dc, trc, ch2, trc, dc) in
next st, dc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, slst to the first hdc (48 sts)
Rnd
2: ch2, dc in next 6 sts, *(2dc, ch3, 2dc) in loop, dc in next 12 sts, repeat
from * 2 more times, (2dc, ch3, 2dc) in loop, dc in 6 sts, slst to the
beginning (64 sts)
Rnd
3: ch2, dc in next 8 sts, *(2dc, ch3, 2dc) in loop, dc in next 16 sts, repeat
from * 2 more times, (2dc, ch3, 2dc) in loop, dc in 8 sts, slst to the
beginning (80 sts)
Rnd
4: ch1, sc in each dc and 5 sc in each ch sp, slst to the beginning (100 sc)
Fasten off
and weave in end.
All done!
Hope you like it!
Here is the quick rundown for the complimentary square.
With color A (flower color), chain 6 and slip stitch to the beginning chain to form a loop. Chain 3 (only these chains count as a stitch) and in the loop (dc3, ch3, dc4, ch3, dc4, ch3, dc4, ch3) and slip stitch to the beginning chain so you have four sides and four corners. It's best to fasten off here and join new color B into the first stitch.
Chain 2 (does not count as a stitch), dc in same stitch as joining and each double crochet, and work (2dc, ch3, 2dc) in each corner. Slip stitch to the beginning dc.
Work the next round the same way with color B. Then switch to color A and work another round the same way. Work the last round with color B and then work a round of single crochets in each double crochet and 5 single crochets in each corner.
I hope that made sense. :) TERMS :: You may sell whatever you make with my pattern, but please link back to my blog. Please DO NOT alter my pattern and repost it in any way, claiming it as your own. Happy crocheting!
I love cute elf hats around the Christmas season. It's a change from the traditional Santa hats. I had a hard time finding a cute elf hat that gradually tapered off the way that I wanted it to, so I decided to take a stab at it and create my own.
I made these cuties last year for my kids and my two nephews. We had a blast taking pictures of them wearing them before they opened presents. I'm thinking that this year I might have my kids wear them for their pictures with Santa since they still fit. How cute will that be? I can just imagine them being real little elves and running around Santa's workshop with him, LOL!
Without further ado, here is the pattern. I took the liberty of writing out a quick and simple version for those that are more intermediate/advanced at their pattern reading before the round by round instructions. When in doubt just go straight for the full pattern. This post contains affiliate links to help you get the materials you need easily!
Size:
This
pattern is written for a toddler/small child size ranging from sizes 2T-6, and
an extension for a big kid/adult size ranging from sizes 8 kids to adult.
Materials
Needed:
worsted weight yarn of your choice (in 2 or more colors of your choice)
pom pom maker
and left over yarn (I used the cardboard circle method in the video below, or you can wind it on your hand)
Gauge:
15 sts and 12 rows should create a 4x4 square.
Tip: I’ve
started out with my first color for three rounds then changed colors every two
rounds to create my stripe. You can do this or create your own stripes.
Special
Stitches:
dcFP (double crochet front post): With your
crochet hook, instead of going through the normal space of the stitch, put your
crochet hook (on the side you’re working on) in the space on the right of the
post of the stitch you are working in, around the post, and then back through
the space on the left of the post. Yarn over and draw up a loop around this
post. You should be on the front of the work and should have 3 loops, finish
off the double crochet normally.
dcBP (double crochet back post): With your crochet hook, instead
of going through the normal space of the stitch, put your crochet hook (on the backside
of your work) in the space on the right of the post of the stitch you are working
in, around the post, and then back through the space on the left of the post.
Yarn over and draw up a loop around this post. You should be on the back of
your work and should have 3 loops, finish off the double crochet normally.
Let’s get
started!
Elf Hat Crochet Pattern
Tip:
You will join at the end of every round and work every round in the same
direction.
Quick Instructions:
Make a Magic Ring
Rnd
1: 6 hdc into loop, slst to beginning (6 sts)
Rnd
2: (hdc inc, hdc next 2) 2 times (8 sts)
Rnd
3-4: hdc around
Rnd
4-19: Repeat Rnds 2 through 4 respectively, alternating a round increasing two
times evenly and then two hdc rounds.
Rnd
20: hdc inc 2 times evenly
Rnd
21: hdc around
Rnd
22-51: Repeat Rnds 20-21 respectively, alternating a round increasing two times
evenly and then hdc around one round.
Rnd
52: hdc inc 4 times evenly
Rnd
53: hdc around
Rnd
54-63: Repeat Rnds 52-53 respectively, alternating a round increasing four
times evenly and then hdc around one round.
Rnd
64-73: hdc around (74 sts)
Band
Rnd
74: ch2, dc around (74 sts)
Rnd
75-77: ch2, (dcFP, dcBP) around, slst to the first dc (74 sts)
Fasten
Off
Full Written
Pattern:
Using
your H hook and your first choice of color (this will also be the last color
worked), make a magic loop/magic ring , pull up a loop and chain 1.
Rnd
1: work 6hdc into the loop, pull the loop closed, slst to the first hdc (6 sts)
Rnd
2: ch 1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 2 sts) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (8 sts)
Rnd
3: ch1, hdc in each st around, slst to the first hdc (8 sts)
If
you are creating a stripe then change color now.
Rnd
4: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (8 sts)
Rnd
5: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 3 sts) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (10 sts)
Change color
for stripe patter, and change color every 2 rounds from here on out. (I won’t
be prompting you to do so anymore, *wink*.)
Rnd
6-7: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (10 sts)
Rnd
8: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 4) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (12 sts)
Rnd
9-10: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (12 sts)
Rnd
11: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 5) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (14 sts)
Rnd
12-13: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (14 sts)
Rnd
14: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 6) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (16 sts)
Rnd
15-16: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (16 sts)
Rnd
17: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 7) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (18 sts)
Rnd
18-19: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (18 sts)
Rnd
20: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 8) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (20 sts)
Rnd
21: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (20 sts)
Rnd
22: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 9) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (22 sts)
Rnd
23: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (22 sts)
Rnd
24: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 10) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (24 sts)
Rnd
25: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (24 sts)
Rnd
26: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 11) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (26 sts)
Rnd
27: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (26 sts)
Rnd
28: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 12) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (28 sts)
Rnd
29: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (28 sts)
Rnd
30: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 13) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (30 sts)
Rnd
31: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (30 sts)
Rnd
32: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 14) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (32 sts)
Rnd
33: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (32 sts)
Rnd
34: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 15) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (34 sts)
Rnd
35: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (34 sts)
Rnd
36: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 16) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (36 sts)
Rnd
37: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (36 sts)
Rnd
38: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 17) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (38 sts)
Rnd
39: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (38 sts)
Rnd
40: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 18) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (40 sts)
Rnd
41: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (40 sts)
Rnd
42: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 19) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (42 sts)
Rnd
43: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (42 sts)
Rnd
44: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 20) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (44 sts)
Rnd
45: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (44 sts)
Rnd
46: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 21) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (46 sts)
Rnd
47: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (46 sts)
Rnd
48: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 22) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (48 sts)
Rnd
49: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (48 sts)
Rnd
50: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 23) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (50 sts)
Rnd
51: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (50 sts)
Rnd
52: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 24) 2 times, slst to the first hdc (52 sts)
Rnd
53: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (52 sts)
Rnd
54: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 12) 4 times, slst to the first hdc (56 sts)
Rnd
55: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (56sts)
Rnd
56: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 13) 4 times, slst to the first hdc (60 sts)
Rnd
57: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (60 sts)
If you’re
making a toddler hat, stop here and work 10 rounds of hdc around. Once finished
jump to the band section.
Rnd
58: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 14) 4 times, slst to the first hdc (64 sts)
Rnd
59: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (64 sts)
Rnd
60: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 15) 4 times, slst to the first hdc (68 sts)
Rnd
61: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (68 sts)
Rnd
62: ch1, (hdc inc, hdc in next 16) 4 times, slst to the first hdc (72 sts)
Rnd
63-73: ch1, hdc around, slst to the first hdc (72 sts)
Join your
band color for an adult hat.
Band
Rnd
74: ch2, dc around, slst to the first dc
Rnd
75-77: ch2, (dcFP, dcBP) around, slst to the first dc
Fasten Off
and weave in end.
Make
a pom pom any way you like to sew to the pointed end. I chose not to pack it
with too much yarn so it wouldn’t be too heavy.
And you’re
all done! Enjoy your elf hat! Update! I got a request for directions on how to make a pom pom, so I decided to find a video from youtube to show you how I make them. This video says to print their template to use, but you can trace anything circular and cut a circle in the center like I did. However wide your circle is is "about" how big your pompom should be, probably smaller once you start trimming it up! :)
TERMS :: You may sell whatever you make with my pattern, but please link back to my blog. Please DO NOT alter my pattern and repost it in any way, claiming it as your own.
So I've been going through my yarn stash and realizing I have a bunch of little balls of yarn that I've wound up from remnants. I wanted to use up these remnants, but I just hate when they roll around my desk or work area. So, I decided to do something about it.
I always buy my yarn by the skein and of course pull the end from the inside of the skein so it unravels fairly easily. What I don't like is when you get about halfway through the skein and it gets floppy and doesn't sit well anymore, so I tend to hand roll them into balls at that point.
I've always wanted a yarn bowl to use for these, but unfortunately I just can't afford to buy one right now, and I figured why not try to DIY my own!? I knew crocheting a bowl from yarn would prove problematic when the yarn starts to pill. There was no way that the yarn would pass through any opening easily if the bowl was made from yarn. Thinking of what else I could make this bowl out of, plarn hit me (plastic yarn) and it was perfect. :D
Luckily I always hold on to my grocery bags, so I set out and cut up about 10 bags or so using this tutorial I found. I still have enough plarn to make another bowl, which I might do. The plarn isn't all that sturdy, so I used some of my paracord I had lying around to help stabilize it. You can use any kind of rope, or maybe even try a chunky yarn instead of the paracord. This post contains affiliate links to help you find what you need easily.
Here's what I did!
Plarn Bowl
Materials Used:
• plastic store bags cut and assembled into yarn
• white paracord
or braided rope
• G crochet hook
or desired size, doesn't matter
• scissors to cut plarn and cut at the end of project
• lighter to finish off ends of paracord (optional)
Pattern Note: I crocheted the plarn around the paracord in the round, so it's all in one piece and the paracord is continuous. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round. Make a magic ring/magic loop and pull up a loop in the center and chain 1.
Rnd 1: sc 8 into the magic loop around your cord
Rnd 2: (working in the round) sc inc in each stitch around (16 sts)
Rnd 3: (sc 1, inc) around (24 sts)
Rnd 4: (sc 2, inc) around (32 sts)
Rnd 5: (sc 3, inc) around (40 sts)
Rnd 6: (sc 4, inc) around (48 sts)
Rnd 7: (sc 5, inc) around (56 sts)
Rnd 8: (sc 6, inc) around (64 sts)
Rnd 9: back post sc in each stitch around Note: You may notice that the upper half of the bowl is wide instead of straight up, which I didn't like. Pull the cord through each row to tighten your bowl as desired.
Rnd 10-15: sc around (64 sts)
Rnd 16: ch 4, skip next 4 sts, sc in remaining 60 sts (60 sts) Note: Keep your cord across the chain opening, you'll cut that out later.
Rnd 17: 4 sc in ch 4 space, work 28 more sc, cut and seal cord, slst in next 5 sts, fasten off Note: Yes you are finishing off at the back.
You could work as many rows as you like. Now you can cut the edges of the cord left in the opening. I just pulled them out a bit and cut and sealed them with my lighter and then stretched my crochet back over the cord. Do this on both edges.
There you have it! A yarn bowl that will allow your yarn ball to sit still and not get tangled on anything! Hope you enjoy!
What do you use for your balls of yarn?
TERMS :: You may sell whatever you make with my pattern, but please link back to my blog. Please DO NOT alter my pattern and repost it in any way, claiming it as your own. Happy crocheting! Chassity O.