Day 14 :: Closing Up Holes

This is Day 14 of the 31 Days of Amigurumi. This 31 day series is full of how-to's for designing and creating your very own amigurumi. Whether you're a beginner at ami's or just need help on a certain technique, there's something here for everyone.

31 Days of Amigurumi is the place to learn all about creating your own Amigurumi. 

When it comes to closing up holes there really is no hard rule for how it's done. There is one technique that seems to work best for me. Here is a video from youtube, but I should let you know that this is not my video.



  • You can choose to go inside to outside, like shown in the video, or outside to inside. Personally, I do outside to inside for a nice seamless finish.
  • Use your tapestry needle and your yarn tail to weave the end shut.
  • Use the front loops only to gather up the outside layer of the work and make it close up neatly.
  • Weave the end down into the ball to make the end lay flat.
I hope this little post helped you. Check back tomorrow for my pros and cons of crocheting all in one piece, or what I call top-down crochet!

Happy crocheting,
~Chassity O.

Day 13 :: Properly Stuffing Your Amigurumi

This is Day 13 of the 31 Days of Amigurumi. This 31 day series is full of how-to's for designing and creating your very own amigurumi. Whether you're a beginner at ami's or just need help on a certain technique, there's something here for everyone.

31 Days of Amigurumi is the place to learn all about creating your own Amigurumi. 

Putting stuffing in your amigurumi is pretty much essential! It wouldn't be an amigurumi if it wasn't stuffed, right? There is one common mistake that we make as beginners, and that's not adding enough stuffing! There one a little rule that I learned early on, and it's this...

Once you think you've added enough stuffing, add some more!

We often believe that there's too much stuffing, but it isn't really. You want to stuff that baby up until the surface feels stiff, but not to the point where the stuffing is coming out between the posts. This is where your tight stitches comes in to play. Here are some tips and tricks I've used when stuffing.

Stuff As You Go

When it comes to stuffing, it's often helpful to stuff along the way! I don't like to stuff it too much as I'm working because I hate when the stuffing gets in my way, but I often like to stuff it a little before the hole gets too small. Once you get down to the last row that hole is often so small that you can only add small amounts of stuffing at a time, making it take forever. Adding a little before it's too small can help speed up the process.

Use a Pen or Pencil to Help You

While a bag of polyester fiberfill often comes with a wooden stick for this reason, I like to use a writing utensil to help me stuff the stuffing in there. Here is the reason why! I find the width of pens and pencils to be the same as that tiny hole at the end of my projects! Also, the flat end of a pen or even the rubber of the eraser helps to grip the fibers and push them inside the hole.

Roll It in Your Hands

Once I've stuffed a bunch of stuffing inside the work, I've noticed that it can start to look lumpy and bumpy (yup, that's a technical term) as the fibers start to ball together. I put the work between my hands and roll it around. Don't be afraid to push it and shape it to get a nice smooth exterior.

Feel For Empty Spots

Once you've been stuffing it up and rolling it around for a nice shape you'll want to push in different spots to feel for any dips and holes in the stuffing. Sometimes you can see them from the shape it's creating, but other times you can feel them under your fingers. Once you find one you can push your stuffing around with your pen or pencil to fill the hole and then stick some more stuffing in there to compensate.

Pay Attention to Your Shape

You want to make sure that your stuffing isn't compromising the shape that you are trying to create. Every time you put some more stuffing in there then check the shape you've made to make sure it looks the way you want it to. The stuffing should be helping you to hold up the shape you've just worked so hard to crochet, not destroying it.

Stuff it to High Heaven

I know I've already said this, but I just have to reiterate it! Once you think you've put enough stuffing in it, stuff it up some more! Just keep stuffing until the stuffing is starting to stick out of the hole. You don't want the stitches to be spreading out, but you want it to feel stiff on the outside. Trust me, it's still going to be nice and soft.

The Exception to The Rule

Of course there is an exception to every rule. So there is no rule saying that you MUST stuff every piece of your ami! There are times when no stuffing, or less stuffing is called for. For my free fashion doll pattern I do not stuff the arms, and that's because I wanted them to move easily. Often times there are ears that are left unstuffed in order to flatten them out and give them a rounded look. Sometimes even a less stuffed ball can give you a more oval shape. It's all in your design, so as always just play around with it.


So that's all from me today! I hope that it made sense for you! We're not even half way yet, so keep coming back. Tomorrow we are going to be talking about closing those holes at the end of your crocheted shapes.

Happy crocheting,
~Chassity O.

Day 12 :: Crocheting Oblongs

This is Day 12 of the 31 Days of Amigurumi. This 31 day series is full of how-to's for designing and creating your very own amigurumi. Whether you're a beginner at ami's or just need help on a certain technique, there's something here for everyone.

31 Days of Amigurumi is the place to learn all about creating your own Amigurumi. 

Oblongs are shapes that are most commonly used to crochet muzzles and snouts for animals. These shapes can come in handy when you need to make other oval shapes from different directions, or for adding different shaped patches and so on. They are usually worked by crocheting on both sides of a chain, curving around it's edges.

(I'm sorry I've been running so far behind but pictures will be coming soon!)

Here is my basic oblong shape. It's kind of hard to really give a straight forward pattern for this because sometimes I just wing it and let the shape tell me what it wants to do. I hope you get the general idea. :)

So this diagram photo might best show how this sort of oblong is achieved. Check out below for what you need to know about oblongs and this basic pattern.


Now if you can't read diasgrams, that's ok, I'm going to translate it below. Here is what you need to know based on this diagram.


  • The number of chains determines how long the diagram will be.
  • Always start with less chains than you need because your work will get longer as you turn the corners.
  • These shapes aren't worked in the round, so you will ch 1 at the beginning of each round and slst at the end.
  • You will crochet on the top and bottom of your foundation chain to get an all over shape.
  • The first and last chain will get 3-5 single crochets to make a half circle. (This diagram shows 3 but I usually do 5.)
  • Each round at the edge after that is worked similarly to the ball. You should increase evenly around. (Sometimes the shape will tell you where the increases will go. You will understand this more with experience.)
  • You can choose to have the chain 1 stand in place of the first single crochet or not count it and single crochet in the first chain/stitch. (This diagram chains as the first stitch, but I almost never do that.)

So I hope that was easy to understand. Here is the diagram pattern written out for you!


Oblong Diagram

Ch 20 (If you don't need a long oblong then chain less stitches. You need at least 4 chains or more.)

Row 1: sc in 3rd ch from hook, sc in next 17 chs, sc 3 times in last ch, (continue on the underside of the chains) sc in next 17 sts, 3 sc in last st (this was one of the two you skipped in the beginning), slst to the first sc

Row 2: ch 1, *sc in next 17 sc, inc in next 3 sc, repeat from *, slst to first sc

Row 3: ch 1, *sc in nex 18 sc, inc, sc, inc, sc, inc, repeat from *, slst to the first sc

Row 4: ch 1, *sc in next 18 sc, inc, sc in next 2 sc, inc, sc in next 2 sc, inc, sc, repeat from *, slst to first sc

Row 5: ch 1, *sc in next 20 sc, inc, sc in next 2, inc, sc, inc, sc in next 3 sc, repeat from *, slst to the first sc

Row 6: ch 1, *sc in next 19, inc, sc in next 4 sc, inc, sc in next 4 sc, inc, sc in next 2, repeat from *, slst to first sc

Row 7: ch 1, *sc in next 22, inc, sc in next 4 sc, inc, sc in next 6 sc, inc, repeat from *, slst to first sc

Row 8: ch 1, *sc in next 22 sc, inc, sc in next 4 sc, inc, sc in next 5 sc, inc, sc in next 4 sc, repeat from *, slst to first sc

This is all the rounds in the diagram, but you can start to see that there really is no hard and fast rule here for these shapes. It's sort of whatever works for what you are creating. Like always, don't be afraid to play around with it and make what you want.


I hope this info has helped you out in some way. These shapes really do just take experience to understand and make it work. Practice makes perfect, haha. Tomorrow we will be talking about stuffing those ami's!

Happy crocheting,
~Chassity O.

Day 11 :: Crocheting Cones

This is Day 11 of the 31 Days of Amigurumi. This 31 day series is full of how-to's for designing and creating your very own amigurumi. Whether you're a beginner at ami's or just need help on a certain technique, there's something here for everyone.

31 Days of Amigurumi is the place to learn all about creating your own Amigurumi. 

Cone shapes come in handy a great deal with amigurumi patterns. If you want a more tapered look and the oval isn't working then a cone might work better. Cone's are obvious shapes in ice cream cones and birthday hats, but what about a pointy chin or snout on a cute critter? What about horns on dragons? These are pointier than an oval and to me qualify as a cone shape.

We are going to work this come from the top down. If you want to end at a point then you will work this idea backwards.

Now the idea of the cone is to start the point with less stitches than a circle gets. A normal point is generally started with 4 single crochets instead of 6. The next round is then a round of single crochets. With the cone shape you will usually work one to two rounds of single crochets between every round of increases. Of course since you started with 4 single crochets in your magic loop then you will increase evenly by 4 in your increase rounds.

Cone
Rnd 1: ML, 4 sc in loop
Rnd 2: sc around
Rnd 3: inc in each st around
Rnd 4: sc around
Rnd 5 (sc, inc) 4 times across
Rnd 6: sc around
Rnd 7: (sc 2, inc) 4 times
Rnd 8: sc around
Rnd 9: (sc 3, inc) 4 times
Rnd 10: sc around
...you get the idea now.

Of course depending on how narrow or wide you want that cone shape to be will determine how many rounds of single crochets you will work between each of the increase rounds. The more rounds of single crochets and the more narrow your cone will be. For a more narrow cone shape you can choose to increase only 2 times instead of 4 even. Feel free to play around with it!

Just be careful! Sometimes the shape can look wonky instead of a nice even progression. This may be because there are too many rounds of single crochets between the two increase rounds. You may just have to check it. Don't be afraid to play around with your increases and single crochet rounds and try new things.

Well this was a little short and sweet but I hope it made sense for you! Tomorrow we will be talking about crocheting oblongs which are most commonly used in animal amigurumi's. I'll see you then!

Happy crocheting,
~Chassity O.

Day 10 :: Crocheting Balls & Ovals

This is Day 10 of the 31 Days of Amigurumi. This 31 day series is full of how-to's for designing and creating your very own amigurumi. Whether you're a beginner at ami's or just need help on a certain technique, there's something here for everyone.

31 Days of Amigurumi is the place to learn all about creating your own Amigurumi. 

Balls and ovals are like the foundation of most amigurumi. When I first found the art of ami's I was fascinated with shapes and wanted to learn more about how they were created. Before that I only made flat objects like blankets and washcloths. I'm sure some of you understand.

Everything we've talked about up until now have gotten us ready for this part. We've already talked about making a magic loop (or crocheting in the second chain if you don't want the magic loop), crocheting in the round, and even circle increases. Now we're going to use those skills to talk about how you create ball and oval shapes.

(NOTE: Sorry I got behind but I will add pictures for this soon.)

Ball Shapes

Crocheting a ball shape seems so impossible when you don't understand how it's created, but it's actually quite simple. Knowing how it's line by line makeup will actually help you to get the shape you are looking for.

Ok, the ball starts off with your magic loop and 6 single crochet. Every round after that will be increased by 6 single crochet evenly. So pay attention to the width of the circle you are creating. The ball will end up slightly smaller than the width of the circle.

Once the width is where you want it then count the number of rounds you have. If you have 6 rounds than you will need to do at least 6 rounds of single crochet's across before you start decreasing. Having the same amount of rounds of increases as the rounds of single crochets is what creates the ball shape.

Of course there are instances when you might want to do more rounds of single crochet to get a certain shape. For instance, I like to do about 2 more rounds of single crochet to get a nice voluptuous ball. LOL

Then come the decreases, and they are just worked opposite of the increases. You'll want to decrease evenly around, spacing them out every round like we talked about previously. You'll end with 6 decreases across. (We'll talk about how to effectively close up a hole on day 14.)

Oval Shapes

Now making an oval shape is no big deal and is only a matter of strategically adding some rounds of single crochet within the rounds of increases. How many rounds you add all depends on what shape you are going for and often takes some playing around.

A basic oval shape can usually be achieved by working two rounds of even increases and then one round of single crochet. Of course, depending on how oval you want the shape to be you might want to work 3 rounds of increases between each round of single crochets, or even one round of increases between each round of single crochets. An oval will start to take shape once you start working those single crochet rounds, so you'll get a feel for the shape and width almost right away.

Don't be afraid to play around with the shape and tear something out if it's not working for you. Depending on how you want the shape to taper off at the bottom you'll want to work the same as the other side. if you are changing it then work it according to how that shape is made.

For instance, an egg is an oval shape on the top and a ball on the bottom. Each side would be worked according to how that shape is created. You might not need to work the same amount of single crochets in it, but that's according to the shape that needs to be created.

Pattern Breakdown

So I hope all this wording is making sense to you, but in case it's not then here are some pattern examples.

Ball
Rnd 1: ML, 6 sc in loop
Rnd 2: inc in each of the 6 sts (that's 6 even increases added)
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) 6 times (that's 6 increases added, and so on)
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) 6 times
Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) 6 times
Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) 6 times
Rnd 7 - 12: sc around
Rnd 13: (4 sc, dec) 6 times
Rnd 14: (3 sc, dec) 6 times
Rnd 15: (2 sc, dec) 6 times
Rnd 16: (sc, dec) 6 times
Rnd 17: dec 6 times
FO, and your ball is done.

Oval
Rnd 1: ML, 6 sc in loop
Rnd 2: inc in each of the 6 sts (that's 6 even increases added)
Rnd 3: sc around
Rnd 4: (sc, inc) 6 times (that's 6 increases added, and so on)
Rnd 5: sc around
Rnd 6: (2 sc, inc) 6 times
Rnd 7 - 12: sc around
Rnd 13: (2 sc, dec) 6 times
Rnd 14: sc around
Rnd 15: (sc, dec) 6 times
Rnd 16: sc around
Rnd 17: dec 6 times
FO, and your oval is done.


Well that is the end of today and I hope it helped you to understand the makeup of these two shapes. Tomorrow we will be talking more about crocheting a cone shape, which isn't far off from today but I didn't want to overwhelm you with a lengthy post. See you then!

Happy crocheting,
~Chassity O.

Day 9 :: Writing Shorthand Pattern Notes

This is Day 9 of the 31 Days of Amigurumi. This 31 day series is full of how-to's for designing and creating your very own amigurumi. Whether you're a beginner at ami's or just need help on a certain technique, there's something here for everyone.

31 Days of Amigurumi is the place to learn all about creating your own Amigurumi. 

Before we get to the crochet portion of this series we have one more post to set you up for success. Today we are going to talk about writing out your pattern notes. The best way to do this is to use what I call shorthand.

Like I said yesterday, I like to use the blank areas on my pattern sketch to write out my notes, so I don't always have enough space to write my notes out fully. I don't know about you, but when I'm crocheting I don't usually wanna stop, especially not long enough to write any lengthy amount of notes.

Here is how I write my notes, but I want to first let you know that you don't have to do this! Find something that works for you! However you best understand it and want to write it then by all means do that. there are several ways you can go about taking notes for your work, but in the end you have to be able to understand what you wrote when it comes time to recreate that ingenious design you started. :D

Writing Shorthand Notes

Ok, so for me, I find it easiest to write my shorthand notes using diagram symbols. But why, you might ask. Well that's because I already know the diagram symbols for crochet and it's easiest for me. If I post a picture online of my work then chances are that most people might not understand what I wrote enough to steal my work. Hence this photo from last week.


I don't know if you noticed the X's and the V's in my notes? These are diagram symbols for sc's and inc's. If I post this photo on my instagram or in a crochet group then I usually rest assured that people don't understand what it says. Of course now that I'm posting this here on my blog and telling all my secrets to you, that's ok by me. ;)  You can of course use it without any problems. Here are two different keys you can use to write your crochet in shorthand.


This one is for the diagram symbols I was talking about. You can write the letters like you see or the actual symbols. For a more extensive list of diagram symbols you can do a google search.


If the diagram symbols are too much for you or maybe you just don't want to learn an entirely new symbol then you can always use the first initial of the stitch you want to write. That is a super easy way to go about it as well.

How am I supposed to use these?

This part might take some getting use to. A normal round of pattern might be written kinda like this.

Rnd 1: make a ML and sc 6 into the loop.
Rnd 2: inc in each stitch around
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around
Rnd 4: (sc 2, inc) around
...and so on.

When I write in shorthand I would write it like this.

ML, 6X
V
(X, V)
(2X, V)
...and whatever else there would be.

See the difference in the shorthand? It's much briefer. I don't worry about writing out my rows, because personally I don't need them as long as I'm writing them vertically this way. In round two I only wrote increase, because I know that if that's the only stitch then it's repeated around. This also goes for the other rounds. The parentheses show me that I repeat what's in them around. I don't always use them unless there are other stitches that won't be repeated.

You can always simplify rows as well. For instance if you had to sc for rounds 6 through 10 or something then just write 5 rounds of single crochet. In abbreviation I would write "5 rnds X". Does that make sense?

Remember the sketch from above? On the right side next to the hand You might see some more familiar pattern notes. This is where your personal needs comes in to play. For things that require special instructions, like maybe the feet or the hands, you can write it out however you best understand it.

Lets go over a more difficult round for some more practice. How would you write this row?

Rnd 8: sc in next 6, sc dec 6 times, sc in last 6 sts.

First break it down. The first part says sc in next 6, so that's just 6 sc's so that would just be 6X. The next part says sc dec 6 times, so that's just 6 A (or an inverted V). The next part then says sc in last 6 sts, so that's 6X again. That would all be written as such...

6X, 6A, 6X

...super simple!

So that seems to be it for my lesson on shorthanding your notes! I hope it's easy to understand, but of course if you have ANY questions then please feel free to leave a comment or message me on any of my social media platforms. Thanks for being here.

Tomorrow we are going to talk about the good stuff, and that's crocheting balls and ovals. this is great for beginners who are just now getting in to amigurumi or want to learn how these shapes are created. There's lots more info to come! Stay tuned! :D

Happy crocheting,
~Chassity O.

Day 8 :: Sketching Your Design

This is Day 8 of the 31 Days of Amigurumi. This 31 day series is full of how-to's for designing and creating your very own amigurumi. Whether you're a beginner at ami's or just need help on a certain technique, there's something here for everyone.

31 Days of Amigurumi is the place to learn all about creating your own Amigurumi.

So it's Day 8 and today we are talking about sketching your amigurumi design. Sketching can be an important part of knowing what you are making. If you are anything like me then sometimes you know what it is you want to make but you just aren't exactly sure how you want it to look in your head. I tend to have an idea but it just isn't coming together the right way.

I like to sketch out a little draft of my idea to help me visualize what I'm trying to make and the basic shapes it's going to take. You don't have to be an artist to create a sketch. It's more of a rough draft or an idea, so as long as you can draw basic shapes like circles, ovals, and rectangles, then you'll be fine. It doesn't have to be detailed, just get your idea on paper.

Get a piece of paper, whether it's blank or lined, whatever. I like to use graph paper, but that's just my one semester of fashion design school coming through. ;)  Use pencil to sketch your basic design. I generally only make dolls nowadays, so my sketch is going to be of dolls only.

So here's a tip! When I sketch I try to sketch to the side of my paper so I can use the blank spaces later to jot down pattern notes as I'm creating. (We'll be talking more about pattern notes tomorrow.)


Here is a quick sketch I recreated for my fashion doll free pattern. It doesn't have to be anything special, the basic shape is all that matters. Here I have traced out the basic shapes of the head and body. We'll be talking more about feet and hands on days 18 and 19, so right now we're going to worry about the body.


The head is just a basic ball shape. The body starts out as an oval shape and then goes straight down like a rectangle. Once you understand how those shapes are created then crocheting them will be easy. We'll be talking about how these shapes are made on day 10 and day 11.

So another thing you might want to think about is how are these shapes going to fit together? Are you going to crochet the head straight into the body and then straight into the legs? Are you going to crochet them all separately and sew them together? If so, how will you sew them together?

For the design pictured I knew that I wanted the legs to be easily moved so the doll could sit. I knew from experience that this could be best achieved if I sewed the legs into the bottom of the body on a flat seam, so that is how she was drawn. I figured that it would be easiest by crocheting the head separately and then sewing it to the body.


Here is my original design and each of the pieces that I crocheted separately. My sketch was my guide for how and what I created.

Here is what you have to remember when using your sketch.

  • What shape are you creating?
  • What size is the shape compared to the other shapes?
  • How will they fit together?
  • How many pieces do I need to crochet?
In some cases you might not need to draw up a sketch, but it can be helpful. This works best for beginners and if you don't understand how it will all work together. This also works great for keeping track of your patterns.

Tomorrow we're going to talk about writing your patterns notes in shorthand. I need the shorthand so that I have enough room on my page for the pattern. I then can save the page and have the picture of what it is and the notes for how it's made for future reference. See you tomorrow!

Happy crocheting,
~Chassity O.

Day 7 :: The Invisible Decrease

This is Day 7 of the 31 Days of Amigurumi. This 31 day series is full of how-to's for designing and creating your very own amigurumi. Whether you're a beginner at ami's or just need help on a certain technique, there's something here for everyone.

31 Days of Amigurumi is the place to learn all about creating your own Amigurumi.

The invisible decrease is amazing. It takes away that bulky looking decrease stitch you get with a "single crochet 2 together", or regular decrease, and makes it virtually invisible when compared to the single crochets around. It blends right in, which is why I love it!

So how do you do it?

A normal decrease is worked by pulling up a loop in the first and second stitch of the two stitches you are trying to decrease (three loops on the hook) and then you draw a loop through all three loops to turn two stitches into one.

An INVISIBLE decrease is worked in the front loops of the two stitches you are trying to decrease. Put your hook through the front loop of the first stitch you are decreasing, then WITHOUT pulling up a loop you simply go through the front loop of the next stitch to decrease. Your hook should now be in two front loops. Now you work a single crochet as normal, pulling up a loop through both front loops and then drawing a loop through the two loops on your hook.

Simple right?

I'm still having trouble with my videos, so here is a video I found on youtube by the Nerdigurumi if you want to see it in action.


Well there you have it, the invisible decrease! You use it in place of a regular decrease when you want the stitches to blend nicely.

Tomorrow we are going to talk about the fun stuff, sketching your design! Woohoo! It's going to be so much fun! Hehe! Sketching your design can be an important step so you can understand what shapes you want to create and they will all fit together. :D

Happy crocheting,
~Chassity O.

Day 6 :: Even Circle Increases

This is Day 6 of the 31 Days of Amigurumi. This 31 day series is full of how-to's for designing and creating your very own amigurumi. Whether you're a beginner at ami's or just need help on a certain technique, there's something here for everyone.

31 Days of Amigurumi is the place to learn all about creating your own Amigurumi.

When I first started crocheting in the round I noticed that every round needed increases to make a circle. You know what I mean? The increases all end up in the same place and make a sort of hexagonal pinwheel design instead of a nice evenly round circle!


I hate that! Especially if I'm making an amigurumi doll, I want a nice shaped doll head and not a block head. Decreases, in particularly, can create a nasty looking seam, and that's undesirable! (Make sure you check out Day 7 for how to crochet an invisible decrease to get rid of that thick decrease stitch.)

Here is what I do to make that little pinwheel look go away.


General amigurumi patterns call for increase in the same places, like (sc 1, increase) and (sc 2, increase) and (sc 3, increase). You get the idea! This is a picture of 8 rounds of this normal circle pattern idea.


The hexagon shape is created because you are crocheting a sort of straight line with the single crochets and then the increases become like corners. See this picture? I put a dot where each increase is, so you can see the pinwheel I was talking about. The edges make a hexagon. No bueno!


Here is what my evenly distributed increases look like. See the nice circle shape?


Once again, I've marked all the increases with dots so you can see them. They aren't all in the straight lines like before. The nice circle is created by staggering the dots every other round. The line is the beginning of the rounds.


Here is what you do! It's going to be a little hard to understand, but I'll tell you first and then write the pattern out.

The first two rounds are worked as normal, 6 sc in ML and then inc in each stitch around. From there the rounds that have an odd number of crochets are worked with the sc's first and then the increases. So that's (sc 1, inc), or (sc 3, inc), or (sc 5, inc) and so on.

The even number crochets are worked a little differently. You want the increase to go over the middle stitch in the odd number of stitches. So the round that is usually (sc 2, inc) will be (inc, 2 sc). The round of (4 sc, inc) will be "sc, inc, (sc 4, inc) until the last 3 sts, 3 scs". I hope that made sense.

In case it's hard to understand, here is the written pattern for a few rounds. Hopefully you'll start to see the pattern.

Of course you will need a stitch marker to mark your rounds.
Rnd 1: make ML, sc 6 into loop (pull the loop tight)
Rnd 2: inc in each stitch around
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around
Rnd 4: (inc,sc 2) around
Rnd 5: (sc 3, inc) around
Rnd 6: sc, inc, (sc 4, inc) until the last 3 sts, 3 sc
Rnd 7: (sc 5, inc) around
Rnd 8: sc 2, inc, (sc 6, inc) until the last 4 sts, 4 sc
Rnd 9: (sc 7, inc) around
Rnd 10: sc 3, inc, (sc 8 inc) until the last 5 sts, 5 sc
Rnd 11: (sc 9, inc) around
Rnd 12: sc 4, inc, (sc 10 inc) until the last 6 sts, 6 sc

Ok, can you see the pattern? This is just 12 rounds, and you may not need this many rounds for an amigurumi, but if you do then you should be able to see how they are worked. That's all there is to it though!

If you have any questions or don't understand anything then please feel free to leave a comment! I will try my best to answer them. Tomorrow we will talk about the invisible decrease. See you then!

Happy crocheting,
~Chassity O.

Day 5 :: Crocheting in the Round Vs Joining

This is Day 5 of the 31 Days of Amigurumi. This 31 day series is full of how-to's for designing and creating your very own amigurumi. Whether you're a beginner at ami's or just need help on a certain technique, there's something here for everyone.

31 Days of Amigurumi is the place to learn all about creating your own Amigurumi.

Crocheting in the round is very desirable when making something that will be viewed from all angles. Rounds and joins all have their place, and here are the pros and cons of each one.

Round

When creating an amigurumi you'll want to work in the round to avoid that unsightly line along the entire length of your work that joining can give you.




You'll have to make the beginning of every round with a stitch marker. You can use a plastic stitch marker, but I just generally use a small length of yarn, about 2-3 inches long, and drape it next to my hook before I start working my first stitch of the round.


Joining

Joining has it's place in amigurumi. If you want the finished piece to have a flat rimmed edge, where the beginning and end of the row end on the same level, then joining is the right technique. Things like muzzles, horns, maybe wings and such are things that are better off working in joins. Of course this is entirely up to you and what you think will look best.

Can you see the join line? It's going straight up and down at the "12 o'clock" mark.
So there it is, working in rounds versus joining! What do you think? Do you prefer rounds or joins?

Tomorrow we will talk about increasing evenly around so you get nice even circles like the ones in the pictures above!

Happy crocheting,
~Chassity O.

Day 4 :: Starting With a Magic Loop

This is Day 4 of the 31 Days of Amigurumi. This 31 day series is full of how-to's for designing and creating your very own amigurumi. Whether you're a beginner at ami's or just need help on a certain technique, there's something here for everyone.

31 Days of Amigurumi is the place to learn all about creating your own Amigurumi.

Amigurumi are usually worked in the round (which we will talk more about tomorrow) and therefor are usually started with a magic loop, also known as a magic ring. The magic loop is a technique where you will crochet into a loop that you can then pull tightly shut to form a round crocheted row that leaves no gap in the center.

Many people struggle with the magic loop technique, and while it's not entirely necessary, I find it to be desirable over other techniques. Check out my video for the magic loop and my technique for getting it to work for me. I had a bit of technical difficulty with my own video, but here is one that does it similarly to me. I will try to get my own video up soon.


TIP: I like to hold two fingers inside the loop while I'm working the single crochets. It helps me to hold the circle stable without worrying about it getting away from me. :)

I'm a right handed, continental crocheter, so this technique isn't always do-able for everyone, depending on how you crochet. Feel free to search youtube for more videos to help you. If the magic loop just isn't your thing and you choose not to do it, here is another technique for starting your ami's.

Leaving a long starting tail, ch2, sc 6 into the second ch from hook.
After this you will then skip the beginning chain and continue to crochet in the round as normal. If you happen to have a large hole in the middle of your foundation row then attach a tapestry needle to that long starting tail and go through the first 6 stitches. You should be able to pull them tightly together, going through the stitches again as needed to secure it.

Tomorrow we will be talking about crocheting in the round versus joining every round. I get a few questions about this every now and then, so I figured it was good to include! I hope you enjoy!

Happy crocheting,
~Chassity O.

Day 3 :: Making Your Stitches Tight

This is Day 3 of the 31 Days of Amigurumi. This 31 Day series is full of how-to's for designing and creating your very own amigurumi. Whether you're a beginner at ami's or just need help on a certain technique, there's something here for everyone.

31 Days of Amigurumi is the place to learn all about creating your own Amigurumi.

In my opinion, if you're just starting out and you want to bring your amigurumi to the next level then tight stitches is where to start. Since these little creations are stuffed full of white poly-fil, it's vital for the stitches to be tight so it won't be seen. The last thing you want is those specks of white showing through and a kid maybe pulling them out. Not good!

Check out my video here for my tips and tricks for getting tight stitches.


That's all for today. I hope it helped you in some way. If not, keep practicing on getting tighter stitches for your ami's or use a smaller hook. ;)  Tomorrow we are going to talk about starting your work with a magic loop.  See you then.

Happy crocheting,
~Chassity O.

Day 2 :: Choosing Your Yarn

This is Day 2 of the 31 Days of Amigurumi. This 31 day series is full of how-to's for designing and creating your very own amigurumi. Whether you're a beginner at ami's or just need help on a certain technique, there's something here for everyone.

31 Days of Amigurumi is the place to learn all about creating your own Amigurumi.

Today we're going to be talking all about choosing the right yarns for your stuffed creations. Amigurumi have tons of stuffing inside and they need to hold their shape. They also need to last and wear slowly against all the love and attention they tend to get. Some yarns are better suited for these two things than others.

The type and weight of yarn isn't so much important as is what they do for your work. I've used all different sorts of yarns and they all have their own purpose. Lets talk about the different types now!

Yarn Types

Synthetic Yarns

When it comes to what kind of yarn you should use, it's mostly up to you. Because of the synthetic make up, synthetic yarns are made from long strands of man made fibers. That means they won't stretch out and are very hard to rip, making them super durable for amigurumi toys. Their long strands mean they won't pill as easily, which makes them look new for longer. They come in a large number of colors and the price is great, and with softer acrylics on the market it's the perfect yarn for amigurumi creations.

Natural Yarns

When cotton and wool are harvested they come in short fibers that are then spun into the yarn. Those short fibers can pill when over handled or washed excessively. It gets "fluffy" real quick! I don't use wool for many reason, but mainly because it's just not cost effective for me when I'm making ami's. Cotton works well for creations that won't be handled too much, so I generally only use it for toys meant for babies. Cotton can be a little more expensive than acrylic, so I'm always picky when I use it.

So what does this mean? In my opinion, acrylic yarn is better!


Yarn Weights


The weight doesn't matter so much if you're making your own designs unless you are trying to match up different weights. You want a consistent look for your creations, so if you want to mix weights I suggest you are very strategic about it. For instance, make the body out of the same weight and only use other weights for accents like hair, clothes, wings, things like that. Of course this is my personal preference, so you can do what feels right for you and what you're creating.

If you want to make smaller amigurumi then I suggest using a smaller weight like sport weight yarn or even a cotton thread. The smaller the yarn and hook then the tighter the stitches and the less your stuffing will show through.

So what does this mean? Yarn weights are up to you and what you're making. If you're a beginner then stick to worsted weight yarn.


I like to use worsted weight yarn for my creations because it's easier to come by, and even so, all those tiny hooks and tiny stitches from smaller ami just hurt my hands. LOL Stay tuned for tomorrow when we'll be talking about the importance of tight stitches and how you can make your stitches tighter if you're a lose crocheter.


Happy crocheting,
~ Chassity O.

31 Days of Amigurumi :: The Beginning

This is a 31 day series filled with all the tips and how-to's of creating your own amigurumi from scratch. Whether you're just starting out or need help with a certain technique, there's something in this series for everyone. Don't forget to save it to your Pinterest or facebook so you can have it saved for future reference.

31 Days of Amigurumi is the place to learn all about creating your own Amigurumi.

What is amigurumi? Amigurumi is a Japanese term for stitched animals, knitted or crochet. They are typically animals, but also include inanimate objects with the cutest little faces. Crafters have started taking this a step further with the most adorable dolls and everything in between. As long as it's cute, cuddly, and stuffed, it's an amigurumi in our books.

Here is a list of all the topics that are going in this 31 days. (They will be linked as the posts go up.) Think of this as your one stop for all things "Amigurumi How-To". Yay!

15. Top Down Crochet (head and body)
18. All About Feet
19. All About Hands
20. All About Arms
21. Using Joints
22. Changing Colors in the Round
23. Adding Hair on Scalp
24. Adding Hair With a Wig Cap
25. Curling Yarn
26. Painting Safety Eyes
27. Giving Crocheted Eyes Life
28. Embroidering Faces
29. Sewing Techniques
30. Weaving in Ends
31. Caring for Amigurumi


I hope you enjoy!

Happy crocheting,
~Chassity O.

Day 1 :: Important Materials for Amigurumi

This is Day 1 of the 31 Days of Amigurumi. This 31 day series is full of how-to's for designing and creating your very own amigurumi. Whether you're a beginner at ami's or just need help on a certain technique, there's something here for everyone. This post does contain affiliate links which allows me to earn a percentage of your purchases made. These help me to continue to bring you free content.

31 Days of Amigurumi is the place to learn all about creating your own Amigurumi.

When you're making amigurumi, there are certain materials and supplies that you will definitely need. If there's one thing I hate is being stuck in the middle of a design because I'm missing something and having to wait to finish.

Since we're talking about creating our own amigurumi here, there won't be a list of materials needed, so I figured I would start day one with important things to have! We all know about yarn, which we'll talk more about tomorrow, but what else? All these things can be found where ever crafts are sold.

Important Supplies for Amigurumi

Embroidery Floss and/or Pearl Cotton
Cotton thread is great for adding fine details to your ami's. In my picture below you will see that there are two different ways they've made this thin cotton thread. First there's the more commonly known embroidery floss, pictured at the top, where the threads are all separated. Then there's pearl cotton, aka cotton thread, where the threads are wound just like yarn. The floss works best for embroidering faces while the pearl cotton works better for crocheting small details and straight lines.



Crochet Hooks
You'll need an array of crochet hook sizes when it comes to making ami's. Since amigurumi have to be made tightly you need smaller sized hooks. Depending on what weight yarn you're using you'll need hooks ranging from A to F. We'll talk more about which hooks work best with which yarns on day 3.



Steel Hooks
I love to use my steel hook for crocheting the aforementioned pearl cotton. It's small enough to give it a nice finish with tight stitches. I have a size 6, 1.8mm hook, but a smaller hook like a 9 would probably work better. The bigger the size number the smaller the hook size is in millimeters.



Tapestry Needle
These are also sometimes known as blunt needles or large eye needles, tapestry needles are essential. Whatever you call them, just make sure that they have a blunt end so they don't split your yarn too easily, and a large eye for your yarn to pass through. I prefer metal needles over plastic ones because I tend to use my teeth to help pull the needles through tight stitches and the plastic ones just wear down fast. When they do they snag on the yarn and I hate it.



Polyester Fiberfil
I prefer polyester fiberfil over natural fills, like cotton, because it's not only cheap but also washable and non-allergenic. With those good features, need I say more?



Sharp Scissors
Of course you can use any kind of scissors you like, but I prefer detail scissors. They have a sharp pointy tip and a clean cut. This helps to cut ends close to the work or in tight spaces.




Safety Eyes
What kind of eyes you choose to use is up to you, whether you crochet them, embroider them, or use safety eyes . I love the look of safety eyes, so if you choose to use them it's good to have them on hand. They come in an array of sizes and colors, so make sure you have what you want. We'll talk more about eyes on a later day.



So there is a list of the things you will most likely need. I hope it helped you if you're new to amigurumi. Tomorrow we're going to be talking about choosing your yarns for your projects. There's also going to be lots of tips and tricks in the days to come so please come back for more great info.


Happy crocheting,
~ Chassity O.