Oblongs are shapes that are most commonly used to crochet muzzles and snouts for animals. These shapes can come in handy when you need to make other oval shapes from different directions, or for adding different shaped patches and so on. They are usually worked by crocheting on both sides of a chain, curving around it's edges.
(I'm sorry I've been running so far behind but pictures will be coming soon!)
Here is my basic oblong shape. It's kind of hard to really give a straight forward pattern for this because sometimes I just wing it and let the shape tell me what it wants to do. I hope you get the general idea. :)
So this diagram photo might best show how this sort of oblong is achieved. Check out below for what you need to know about oblongs and this basic pattern.
Now if you can't read diasgrams, that's ok, I'm going to translate it below. Here is what you need to know based on this diagram.
- The number of chains determines how long the diagram will be.
- Always start with less chains than you need because your work will get longer as you turn the corners.
- These shapes aren't worked in the round, so you will ch 1 at the beginning of each round and slst at the end.
- You will crochet on the top and bottom of your foundation chain to get an all over shape.
- The first and last chain will get 3-5 single crochets to make a half circle. (This diagram shows 3 but I usually do 5.)
- Each round at the edge after that is worked similarly to the ball. You should increase evenly around. (Sometimes the shape will tell you where the increases will go. You will understand this more with experience.)
- You can choose to have the chain 1 stand in place of the first single crochet or not count it and single crochet in the first chain/stitch. (This diagram chains as the first stitch, but I almost never do that.)
So I hope that was easy to understand. Here is the diagram pattern written out for you!
Oblong Diagram
Ch 20 (If you don't need a long oblong then chain less stitches. You need at least 4 chains or more.)
Row 1: sc in 3rd ch from hook, sc in next 17 chs, sc 3 times in last ch, (continue on the underside of the chains) sc in next 17 sts, 3 sc in last st (this was one of the two you skipped in the beginning), slst to the first sc
Row 2: ch 1, *sc in next 17 sc, inc in next 3 sc, repeat from *, slst to first sc
Row 3: ch 1, *sc in nex 18 sc, inc, sc, inc, sc, inc, repeat from *, slst to the first sc
Row 4: ch 1, *sc in next 18 sc, inc, sc in next 2 sc, inc, sc in next 2 sc, inc, sc, repeat from *, slst to first sc
Row 5: ch 1, *sc in next 20 sc, inc, sc in next 2, inc, sc, inc, sc in next 3 sc, repeat from *, slst to the first sc
Row 6: ch 1, *sc in next 19, inc, sc in next 4 sc, inc, sc in next 4 sc, inc, sc in next 2, repeat from *, slst to first sc
Row 7: ch 1, *sc in next 22, inc, sc in next 4 sc, inc, sc in next 6 sc, inc, repeat from *, slst to first sc
Row 8: ch 1, *sc in next 22 sc, inc, sc in next 4 sc, inc, sc in next 5 sc, inc, sc in next 4 sc, repeat from *, slst to first sc
This is all the rounds in the diagram, but you can start to see that there really is no hard and fast rule here for these shapes. It's sort of whatever works for what you are creating. Like always, don't be afraid to play around with it and make what you want.
I hope this info has helped you out in some way. These shapes really do just take experience to understand and make it work. Practice makes perfect, haha. Tomorrow we will be talking about stuffing those ami's!
Happy crocheting,
~Chassity O.
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